From: rugger81 on 9 Aug 2006 16:28 I just bought an old cb750 recently and now I'm having some electrical problems. I was riding down the rode when all of a sudden the bike stalled out. I pulled over to the side of the road and I noticed all the electrical was out. I tried kick starting it and push starting it and I even got someone to try and jump start the bike but all I got was the power to flicker a couple of times. The battery is brand new so that shouldn't be the problem. I don't have the money to go take it to a shop and get reamed so I want to try and fix it myself. I think maybe the power is shorting into the frame somewhere, but I don't know. Anyone have any advice for me? thanks in advance. -Joe
From: monk on 9 Aug 2006 17:15 rugger81 wrote: > I just bought an old cb750 recently and now I'm having some electrical > problems. I was riding down the rode when all of a sudden the bike > stalled out. I pulled over to the side of the road and I noticed all > the electrical was out. I tried kick starting it and push starting it > and I even got someone to try and jump start the bike but all I got was > the power to flicker a couple of times. The battery is brand new so > that shouldn't be the problem. I don't have the money to go take it to > a shop and get reamed so I want to try and fix it myself. I think > maybe the power is shorting into the frame somewhere, but I don't know. > Anyone have any advice for me? thanks in advance. > > -Joe > Try following through this fault finding chart. It helped me get through the electrical issues with both the bikes I'm working on. (74 RD350 and 81 KE125) cheers
From: monk on 9 Aug 2006 17:15 rugger81 wrote: > I just bought an old cb750 recently and now I'm having some electrical > problems. I was riding down the rode when all of a sudden the bike > stalled out. I pulled over to the side of the road and I noticed all > the electrical was out. I tried kick starting it and push starting it > and I even got someone to try and jump start the bike but all I got was > the power to flicker a couple of times. The battery is brand new so > that shouldn't be the problem. I don't have the money to go take it to > a shop and get reamed so I want to try and fix it myself. I think > maybe the power is shorting into the frame somewhere, but I don't know. > Anyone have any advice for me? thanks in advance. > > -Joe > sorry, this is the link to the chart. http://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf
From: 'Lefty' on 10 Aug 2006 01:05 "rugger81" <jgilchrist(a)ots.net> wrote in message news:1155155299.751089.62800(a)i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com... >I just bought an old cb750 recently and now I'm having some electrical > problems. I was riding down the rode when all of a sudden the bike > stalled out. I pulled over to the side of the road and I noticed all > the electrical was out. I tried kick starting it and push starting it > and I even got someone to try and jump start the bike but all I got was > the power to flicker a couple of times. The battery is brand new so > that shouldn't be the problem. I don't have the money to go take it to > a shop and get reamed so I want to try and fix it myself. I think > maybe the power is shorting into the frame somewhere, but I don't know. > Anyone have any advice for me? thanks in advance. > -Joe On the older bikes, where you could Switch Off the headlight during the day: SOME of these switches ALSO switched off one of the legs of the alternator. (3 down to 2). This is All Before the Fuse Box. If the wire going from the alternator, up to the switch, and then back to the regulator gets the plastic rubbed-off (time & wear) then you get a 85vAC to Grounf SHORT, which will eat the windings of the stator. Needless to say the battery doesn't charge either. Quick Check for a dieing battery. If the Turn Signal comes on, but doesn't BLINK, your battery is LOW (10 volts or less) and you should head home - to a shop Quickly. If You Can, turn off the headlight to reduce the load on whats left in the battery. (Leave for the spark plugs) On ANY older bike thats 'brought back to life' cleaning the connections on all of the electrical system will get rid of a LOT of problems. Dirty connections cause a voltage loss/generate waste heat. WD-40 works good, steel wool or a file works better. Look for a paste at an ELECTRICIANS SHOP that reduces/prevents corrosion on exposed wires/connections. (NO-ALLOX is one) It only takes a paper-thin layer to prevent your connections from rusting. On the HONDA motorcycles. The 'START' push button has 4 wires going to it, all the same size. (18 gauge or so) TWO of the wires pass current to the solonoid, to 'key' the solonoid, to pass current to the Starter-motor. The Other Two wires pass current to the HEADLIGHT. ADDING LIGHTS will increase the current, and possibly melt the plastic inside the switch, shutting off your headlight. Honda DOES NOT sell switches, just 'wiring assemblies'. (Can you say $100+) Cheap Fix: Open up the assembly where the start switch is, unbolt the switch from the assembly. DO NOT UNSOLDER ANYTHING!. Look Closely at the switch, see that the board with the wires is Pressed Into the plastic that makes up the rest of the switch. CAREFULLY Pry the 'teeth' back, be ready for the ball-bearing on a spring, and open the switch up. Clean the plastic off the switch contacts, then put it all back togeather. thats it. Better Fix: Get a Normally Open relay that will continously handle 10 Amps of current. (120 watts) Put this relay in the electrical box under the fuel tank. Run a wire Directly from the Fuse box (power in), and another Directly to the (HI/LOW) switch on the handlebars, and then 2 wires down to the headlight. Use the current coming through the START switch to Key the Relay. Now, you have the Headlight Current going through the relay, Not the Switch. The amount of current to Key the relay is maybe 5% of what it was before. With 12-gauge wires for the headlight, you can run 100 watt lights & not be concerned. Look for Ground Connections. Clean them. Look for 'ground return' wires, and either shorten or remove them and use Chassis Ground. (Some headlight domes use rubber insulators to reduce vibration. Install a jumper-wire to the bike frame) Cheap Crimp-connectors: MANY bike's wiring harnesses use these at connections. They Will Corrode & Open-up over time. Get Out your Soldering Iron, some cleaning flux, and electrical tape. SOLDER all of the connections you can. (Be Careful Around the Blinker Relay/Solonoid/Ignition Control unit/Ignition pick-ups) Remove what wires you can from the bike before soldering if you can. Cooking a circuit board is a real possability - be careful) Have you got your winter project planned? Good Luck, Lefty P.S. IF you have a COOKED STATOR, try to re-wind the unit yourself. Get some transformer wire from an electrical shop, some epoxy to seal it up wen your done, and COUNT THE WINDINGS as you un-wrap the posts. New stators run $150+, you can easily save $100.
From: rugger81 on 10 Aug 2006 08:39 Looks like I got some work ahead of me, but at least I have some ideas of what to do now. Thanks alot guys.
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