Another one...
in [Classic Motorcycles]
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From: mark on 24 Jul 2010 09:31 In message <1jm4zul.6ljdrj1cxaiqmN%totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk>, The Older Gentleman <totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> writes >mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > >> >That's not necessarily good news. Are you sure it's the right size? >> >> Haven't actually measured it but it looks exactly the same as the one on >> the other bike here. > >Ah, so both bikes have been bodged then ;) > > /Thinks Maybe I should buy a third (1) for comparison purposes? 1. Technically a 5th if you count the registered frames I now have lying about................ -- Mark Roberts
From: mark on 24 Jul 2010 10:00 In message <1jm50sc.1dy9og8ftezn2N%totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk>, The Older Gentleman <totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> writes >mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > >> Send it me with that painted tank and panel set for �170 and I'll >> promise to think the best of you? > >That sounds do-able. I assume you're going to collect or UR the >tank/panel set? I hate posting fuel tanks because they need an arseload >of packing. Whereabouts are you, anyway? North Wales :) I think possibly the UR might be best. Don't post it, it is; as you say. > >If you are sure you want the tank and panels and the fusebox, I can kill >he impending auctions, no problem. Yes please. -- Mark Roberts
From: The Older Gentleman on 24 Jul 2010 10:13 mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > In message <1jm50sc.1dy9og8ftezn2N%totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk>, The > Older Gentleman <totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> writes > >mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > > > >> Send it me with that painted tank and panel set for �170 and I'll > >> promise to think the best of you? > > > >That sounds do-able. I assume you're going to collect or UR the > >tank/panel set? I hate posting fuel tanks because they need an arseload > >of packing. Whereabouts are you, anyway? > > North Wales :) Well, Steve H is close-ish to you and comes to the Smoke quite frequently. And there are others. Put a UR call on ukrm. > I think possibly the UR might be best. > Don't post it, it is; as you say. > > > > >If you are sure you want the tank and panels and the fusebox, I can kill > >he impending auctions, no problem. > > Yes please. OK. Chuck �170 at my PayPal (address is the one in the sig, not this posting address) and I'll do that. Remember I won't be back in the country until 7 August, so I can't do anything until then. Anyway, gives you plenty of time to sort out the UR. Should the worst happen to your loom, I also have a really good nick wiring loom. The only broken connector is on the white wire to the headlight. http://www.neil_murray.fastmail.fm/400Floom.jpg -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools
From: mark on 24 Jul 2010 14:21 In message <1jm4uvw.1vbrtub1dl3xk3N%totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk>, The Older Gentleman <totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> writes >mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > >> There is a bolt there. It's the right size and has the lock nut. >> It appears to be sticking out a long way though; a good 3/4". > >That's not necessarily good news. Are you sure it's the right size? The >standard bolt is a tiny 8mm thing. If someone's jammed a larger diameter >bolt in, the thread's probably fucked. If it's just an 8mm bolt but >longer than stock, then you're probably OK. > Had another little shed 'escape' earlier. The bolt is the right size albeit longer. Unfortunately the thread in the alloy is fecked. I know everyone says you shouldn't but I reckon it wouldn't be so difficult to cut some sort of new thread in there. It's only alloy. Hand drill it out carefully so I don't catch the tension rod. Tap it using a tap with a cunning extension piece attached so the tap vice clears the frame. Do all this with the hole full of grease so I can catch any swarf. Finish off the hole with a bolt of the right thread all sharpened up at the end.... Comments? -- Mark Roberts
From: The Older Gentleman on 24 Jul 2010 15:25
mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > Had another little shed 'escape' earlier. > The bolt is the right size albeit longer. > Unfortunately the thread in the alloy is fecked. Thought so. > I know everyone says you shouldn't but I reckon it wouldn't be so > difficult to cut some sort of new thread in there. > It's only alloy. > Hand drill it out carefully so I don't catch the tension rod. > Tap it using a tap with a cunning extension piece attached so the tap > vice clears the frame. Yes, this is necessary because (as you've seen) the bolt is very close to the front of the engine and the frame. There's not much room to do anything. > Do all this with the hole full of grease so I can catch any swarf. > Finish off the hole with a bolt of the right thread all sharpened up at > the end.... > > Comments? This would work. However, you have the additional possibility that whoever butchered the thread in the first place may also have driven the replacement bolt in hard enough to bend and jam the tensioner rod. Before you do anything, do the old 'screwdriver down the tensioner rod tunnel' trick to see if the camchain quietens when you push down on the screwdriver. You may need to give the end of the driver a light tap with a hammer - those rods do seize. Well, actuallym the 'horseshoe' under the crank does, too. If this works - if you can hear the engine quieten when you press down on the screwdriver - then go ahead. If it doesn't, then you've got a big problem which it may take a complete engine strip to sort. -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools |