Another one...
in [Classic Motorcycles]
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From: mark on 24 Jul 2010 17:21 In message <1jm5hsr.1jm0502roqmm9N%totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk>, The Older Gentleman <totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> writes >This would work. However, you have the additional possibility that >whoever butchered the thread in the first place may also have driven the >replacement bolt in hard enough to bend and jam the tensioner rod. Hadn't considered that. Quite possible... > >Before you do anything, do the old 'screwdriver down the tensioner rod >tunnel' trick to see if the camchain quietens when you push down on the >screwdriver. Had considered this; because of this: > >You may need to give the end of the driver a light tap with a hammer - >those rods do seize. Well, actuallym the 'horseshoe' under the crank >does, too. > >If this works - if you can hear the engine quieten when you press down >on the screwdriver - then go ahead. The engine is lacking cam chain noise. I suppose I should consider the possibility that it's nice and tight because the rod is nicley stuck due to being bent..... > >If it doesn't, then you've got a big problem which it may take a >complete engine strip to sort. Is it wrong to think that this might be an interesting thing to do? :) -- Mark Roberts
From: The Older Gentleman on 24 Jul 2010 17:50 mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > The engine is lacking cam chain noise. > I suppose I should consider the possibility that it's nice and tight > because the rod is nicley stuck due to being bent..... It would definitely not be the first time it's happened. > > > >If it doesn't, then you've got a big problem which it may take a > >complete engine strip to sort. > > Is it wrong to think that this might be an interesting thing to do? If you equate 'interesting' with 'expensive', then no :-) Seriously, engine work on a 400 Four is expensive. Once you've got the thing apart, you'll need to replace all seals and gaskets as a matter of course, and certainly the camchain and tensioner blades. Pistons and rings, probably not, as they're surprisingly durable. But even a fairly basic strip and rebuild will easily set you back �250. Like I said, do the screwdriver blade test (obviously, you need the locking bolt removed for this). If it's noisy and then quietens when you press, fine, it's not seized. Do the thread repair. Sometimes, like I said, the 'horseshoe' sticks. It was stuck on mine when I first got it. You can actually get at it through the sump. You'll need a broad bladed screwdriver and a hook fashioned from a bent coat-hanger. Remove the locking bolt, as ever. Remove the sump. It's easiest if you lay the bike now on its side, but with a torch and little mirror-onna-stick you don't have to. On the bottom of the pivoting horseshoe you'll see a sort of lug. Here: http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb400f2-england_model14647/partslist/E01.html Part number 50 Push up on that lug with the end of the screwdriver. Pull down with the hook. Repeat until it frees up. -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools
From: mark on 25 Jul 2010 16:58 In message <1jm5o3m.1j8xx341h7z1tsN%totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk>, The Older Gentleman <totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> writes >mark <mark(a)martem.demon.co.uk> wrote: > >> The engine is lacking cam chain noise. >> I suppose I should consider the possibility that it's nice and tight >> because the rod is nicley stuck due to being bent..... > >It would definitely not be the first time it's happened. > >> > >> >If it doesn't, then you've got a big problem which it may take a >> >complete engine strip to sort. >> >> Is it wrong to think that this might be an interesting thing to do? > >If you equate 'interesting' with 'expensive', then no :-) I guess it is expensive if you actually consider what the thing is worth as a bike you might use to ride about. I quite like the bloody things for different/nostalgic reasons and fiddling about with them is quite pleasant for some weird reason. I guess I should decide whether the above (1) is worth the time and money it takes before going mad with spanners and hylomar. > >Seriously, engine work on a 400 Four is expensive. > a fairly basic strip and rebuild will easily set you back �250. Thanks for the financial heads up. > <Snip useful stuff about seized tensioner> Cheers for that. 1.different/nostalgic reasons and fiddling about -- Mark Roberts
From: Champ on 26 Jul 2010 05:39 On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 22:50:52 +0100, totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > >Seriously, engine work on a 400 Four is expensive. Once you've got the >thing apart, you'll need to replace all seals and gaskets as a matter of >course, and certainly the camchain and tensioner blades. > >Pistons and rings, probably not, as they're surprisingly durable. But >even a fairly basic strip and rebuild will easily set you back �250. <considers 800 quids worth of bits just put into ZX10R engine> Expensive? -- Champ neal at champ dot org dot uk
From: The Older Gentleman on 26 Jul 2010 07:15
Champ <news(a)champ.org.uk> wrote: > On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 22:50:52 +0100, totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk > (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > > > > >Seriously, engine work on a 400 Four is expensive. Once you've got the > >thing apart, you'll need to replace all seals and gaskets as a matter of > >course, and certainly the camchain and tensioner blades. > > > >Pistons and rings, probably not, as they're surprisingly durable. But > >even a fairly basic strip and rebuild will easily set you back �250. > > <considers 800 quids worth of bits just put into ZX10R engine> > > Expensive? Heh. Well, I was thinking of not replacing anything except gaskets, seals and camchain bits. What cost �800, then? -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools |