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From: Buzby on 29 Mar 2010 07:16
Gyp wrote:

> The Older Gentleman wrote:
>
> > > I think you're missing the point here. Think journalism and shite
> > > old bike reviews.
> >
> > Ding
>
> A mate of mine has the 900 Thunderbird. He's just been trying to get
> it running after a lay up. Long story short, the backfire was so big
> it not only blew the airbox to pieces and him across the garage
> floor, it also set light to the bike.


It's obviously a Triumph thing - I had a old Bonneville like that

--
"there's nothing more dangerous than a resourceful idiot"
From: Lozzo on 29 Mar 2010 07:25
The Older Gentleman wrote:

> Andy Bonwick <nospam(a)bonwick.me.uk> wrote:
>
> > On 28 Mar 2010 18:35:04 GMT, "Lozzo" <lozzo(a)lozzo.org.uk> wrote:
> >
> > > The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > >
> > >> That's the old 885cc triple, and/or the more powerful Series
> > III, not >> the T509, T595 or the smaller 600/650/675s
> > >>
> > >> Need a swift hand....
> > >
> > > What's the problem? I've worked extensively on a couple of them
> > > and had an 885 Sprint stripped right down. I've also got a
> > > factory manual for them.
> >
> > I think you're missing the point here. Think journalism and shite
> > old bike reviews.
>
> Ding

In that case I can confirm that most jobs are within the scope of the
competent home mechanic, as long as he has a decent quality T45 driver
bit and a factory manual. Nothing about them is overly complex and from
my experience of a 75K mile old 1993 Trident Sprint that had been
neglected for a vast portion of its life, the cylinder bores still had
very visible hone marks when I took the cylinder head off to replace
the head gasket.

Relacing the air filter is a PITA as it comes from the factory as an
expensive complete airbox asssembly, but Sprint Engineering do a
cheaper replacement filter element. This still requires you to remove
the complete airbox to do the swop though, which on a bike damn near 20
years old is a job and a half when the inlet rubbers are like concrete.

Other than that they are easy to maintain.

--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Tourer, CBR600F-W racebike in the making, TS250C, RD400F
(somewhere)
From: TOG on 29 Mar 2010 08:30
On 29 Mar, 12:25, "Lozzo" <lo...(a)lozzo.org.uk> wrote:
> The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > Andy Bonwick <nos...(a)bonwick.me.uk> wrote:
>
> > > On 28 Mar 2010 18:35:04 GMT, "Lozzo" <lo...(a)lozzo.org.uk> wrote:
>
> > > > The Older Gentleman wrote:
>
> > > >> That's the old 885cc triple, and/or the more powerful Series
> > > III, not >> the T509, T595 or the smaller 600/650/675s
>
> > > >> Need a swift hand....
>
> > > > What's the problem? I've worked extensively on a couple of them
> > > > and had an 885 Sprint stripped right down. I've also got a
> > > > factory manual for them.
>
> > > I think you're missing the point here. Think journalism and shite
> > > old bike reviews.
>
> > Ding
>
> In that case I can confirm that most jobs are within the scope of the
> competent home mechanic, as long as he has a decent quality T45 driver
> bit and a factory manual. Nothing about them is overly complex and from
> my experience of a 75K mile old 1993 Trident Sprint that had been
> neglected for a vast portion of its life, the cylinder bores still had
> very visible hone marks when I took the cylinder head off to replace
> the head gasket.
>
> Replacing the air filter is a PITA as it comes from the factory as an
> expensive complete airbox asssembly, but Sprint Engineering do a
> cheaper replacement filter element. This still requires you to remove
> the complete airbox to do the swop though, which on a bike damn near 20
> years old is a job and a half when the inlet rubbers are like concrete.
>
I know all about that - my Trophy 1200 had the same lunatic airbox
design. Carbs-off job and something like two hours.

> Other than that they are easy to maintain.
>
Yup. Except you absolutely have to lock the crank up when you've got
the camchain slackened off and are removing or replacing the valve
shims. With the 120 degree crank, it *will* try to "roll on" and the
camchain *will* try to jump the lower sprocket (and succeed). Happened
when we were doing Niall's T'bird. Luckily, there's enough slack in
the camchain, with the tensioner off, just to hook it back on
correctly, as long as one of you has a death-grip on the nut you use
to turn the engine over.

I think the Haynes BoL advocates using a piece of timber jammed into
the engine sprocket or something.
From: zymurgy on 29 Mar 2010 17:18
On Mar 29, 1:30 pm, "TOG(a)Toil" <totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> On 29 Mar, 12:25, "Lozzo" <lo...(a)lozzo.org.uk> wrote:
>
> > The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > > Andy Bonwick <nos...(a)bonwick.me.uk> wrote:
>
> > > > On 28 Mar 2010 18:35:04 GMT, "Lozzo" <lo...(a)lozzo.org.uk> wrote:
>
> > > > > The Older Gentleman wrote:
>
> Yup. Except you absolutely have to lock the crank up when you've got
> the camchain slackened off and are removing or replacing the valve
> shims. With the 120 degree crank, it *will* try to "roll on" and the
> camchain *will* try to jump the lower sprocket (and succeed). Happened
> when we were doing Niall's T'bird. Luckily, there's enough slack in
> the camchain, with the tensioner off, just to hook it back on
> correctly, as long as one of you has a death-grip on the nut you use
> to turn the engine over.

Sounds awful.

But don't you hoick the shim out whilst depressing the follower / cam
bucket with the cam lobe pointing outwards ?

Why would you loosen the cam chain ?

Paul.


From: Lozzo on 29 Mar 2010 19:36
zymurgy wrote:


> Sounds awful.
>
> But don't you hoick the shim out whilst depressing the follower / cam
> bucket with the cam lobe pointing outwards ?

I'm pretty sure that's what I did when changing valve shims on the
Daytonas.

> Why would you loosen the cam chain ?

I only did this when replacing the head gasket on a Trident Sprint -
everything had to be lined up again afterwards anyway, so locking the
crank wasn't essential at that point.




--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Tourer, CBR600F-W racebike in the making, TS250C, RD400F
(somewhere)
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