Prev: Changing crank seals on an RD-400
Next: Suggestions for avoiding rust on rotors ?
From: ian field on 24 Nov 2009 12:24

"Ron Gibson" <rsgibson(a)tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:kolmg5pr5tht6cfj5tbp2vfr526s2n983k(a)4ax.com...
> On Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:39:54 -0000, "ian field"
> <gangprobing.alien(a)ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>There is a potential problem with that scheme, the battery can drop to
>>about
>>half voltage under cranking load and may cause the relay to drop out when
>>you least want it to.
>
> An in series toggle switch is the simplest solution. I'm sure they've
> designed the circuitry in a way you wont fry anything if the light is
> off. After all, bulbs do blow all on their own and a circuit designed
> so alternator/generator output starts cooking the circuitry when you
> blow a bulb is a completely idiotic design.


They certainly exist - those little 2-stroke step-through's of the 70s &
80's used very precarious regulation systems, one I had, the battery (for
indicators, horn stoplight etc) was charged by a single diode from a tapping
on the AC lighting coil. The battery charging current was supposed to
regulate the AC lighting coil but obviously only did on alternate half
cycles - the regulation was flaky at best.

On one occasion I had the battery fuse blow, causing complete loss of
regulation on the AC lighting and instant blowing of every bulb on that
circuit - I was giving it some along an unlit country lane at the time!


From: Bob on 28 Nov 2009 06:45
On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 17:31:57 -0600, Mark Olson <olsonm(a)tiny.invalid> wrote:

|>> that the loss of the load would spike some voltages and then possibly
|>> harm something expensive such as an electronic ignition system.
|>
|>Adding a switch is unnecessary. As you say, the bike's charging system
|>is designed to have the headlight on all the time when the engine is
|>running and has enough capacity to charge the battery while running the
|>headlight.

Sometimes the battery voltage will drop to %20/12.0volts and some
even less at long intersection stop lights.
This is somewhat dependant on the ReserveCapacity/Ah high quality of
the battery, and a high quality "spaciality" m-cycle battery is pretty pricy
or rare these days.

My headlights draw 60x2=120 watts from an 8amp starting battery,
needless to say the alarm leeching doesn't help much either.

Adding an inline switch will confuse the ECU/ECM's or general
electronic ignition system's reading and cause an abnormal conflict
somewhere, unless you really know the bikes wiring....and other "fixes".

Good Luck

Bob


From: Mark Olson on 28 Nov 2009 18:34
Bob wrote:

> Adding an inline switch will confuse the ECU/ECM's or general
> electronic ignition system's reading and cause an abnormal conflict
> somewhere, unless you really know the bikes wiring....and other "fixes".

No, adding a headlight cutout switch won't "confuse" the ECU or the
electronic ignition system or cause an abnormal conflict somewhere.

I'd suggest you post here only about subjects you know something about.



From: The Older Gentleman on 29 Nov 2009 04:01
Mark Olson <olsonm(a)tiny.invalid> wrote:

> Bob wrote:
>
> > Adding an inline switch will confuse the ECU/ECM's or general
> > electronic ignition system's reading and cause an abnormal conflict
> > somewhere, unless you really know the bikes wiring....and other "fixes".
>
> No, adding a headlight cutout switch won't "confuse" the ECU or the
> electronic ignition system or cause an abnormal conflict somewhere.
>
> I'd suggest you post here only about subjects you know something about.

That'll be a short list, then ;-)


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
First  |  Prev  | 
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5
Prev: Changing crank seals on an RD-400
Next: Suggestions for avoiding rust on rotors ?