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From: Waz on 11 Feb 2010 05:43 My buddies and I make videos about motorcycle DIY. The latest one is about overhauling the suspension on my Cagiva Elefant - starting with making a new linkage spacer using a Dremel mounted on a lathe. http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-14-dremel-on-a-lathe-rear-suspension-overhaul-part-1/ There are other videos at the site about wheel bearings, steering head bearings, chain and sprockets etc, plus a couple of on-the-road episodes. All the best, Waz http://www.garagenight.tv
From: Waz on 11 Feb 2010 16:58 On Feb 11, 9:14 pm, Beryl <fo...(a)road.net> wrote: > What do you think about tapered roller bearings vs. ball bearings for > the steering? > The tapered rollers I've seen pics of all look like the cone angle is > overly sharp, which would wedge the rollers tightly into the races. I > think they should be flatter. > Balls look more relaxed, like they'd accept loads equally well from all > reasonable angles. Nope, it's the kind of job that tapered rollers are for - seems to me that the load is being spread over a lot more bearing surface, ie the full height of each cylindrical roller. With ball bearings you wouldn't have that.
From: Waz on 12 Feb 2010 10:00 On Feb 12, 1:07 am, Beryl <fo...(a)road.net> wrote: > I know the tapered rollers have more contact area, but neither radial > nor thrust loads are applied normal (perpendicular) to the roller > surfaces. I suppose the cone angle isn't extreme enough that it makes > any difference. > Ball races have concave channels around the balls. Loads from any > direction will meet the races and balls normal to the contact surfaces. I'm not an engineer but it seems to me that the much of the force going through the steering shaft are going to be trying to rock it, rather than pushing it up and down, so when the shaft is putting force is on one side of the bottom bearing, it's going to be on the 180 degree opposite side of the top bearing. So the forces will be roughly perpendicular to the bearing surfaces, and the surface of the bearing race that's pressed into the steering head, and that's why a tapered bearing is used. In summary I think the loads _are_ roughly perpendicular to the roller surfaces. But I'm not an expert.
From: Waz on 12 Feb 2010 10:17 On Feb 12, 1:03 pm, paul c <toledobythe...(a)oohay.ac> wrote: > Thanks for posting. Very enjoyable videos, good luck on the rallies. > > (In the bead breaking episode I couldn't quite make out what the wheel > was laying on but I liked the trick with the old garden hose.) The wheel was lying on a piece of old rag. My top tip with tyre changing/tube changing/puncture repair is when levering the tyre back onto the rim, put something under the hub to raise it off the ground about four inches. When you're trying to lever the last bit of tyre back over the rim you can push the lever right down, deforming the tyre so it drags the last few inches of bead over the rim.
From: S'mee on 12 Feb 2010 22:44 On Feb 12, 10:32 am, Futility Man <n...(a)futile.org> wrote: > I have a bead breaker that I carry on road trips. It folds to about a foot long > and maybe 2.5 inches in diameter and will break any motorcycle tire bead I've > ever encountered. That and three levers is all I need to change most tires. > Getting a tire off under most circumstances is about 3 minutes from the time I > lay the wheel on the work surface until the tire is off. Putting a tire back on > is about a minute. Balancing is another couple of minutes. Anything else is > wasted effort or reinventing the wheel. > > Wide, low profile tires are considerably more difficult but nowhere near > impossible. It almost always takes longer to remove and replace the wheel than > it does to change the tire. > > Using a vise like they did in that video is perfectly fine, but it takes up a > lot of room in the saddlebag. I don't ever lay a wheel down and stomp around on > the tire. That's a great way to warp brake disks. > > -- > Futility Man I you remember how to get ahold of me, I'd like the make and item number of that bead breaker. 8^) It could come in handy...
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