Garage Night video: Suspension overhaul starts with Dremel ona lathe
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From: Beryl on 11 Feb 2010 20:07 Waz wrote: > On Feb 11, 9:14 pm, Beryl <fo...(a)road.net> wrote: >> What do you think about tapered roller bearings vs. ball bearings for >> the steering? >> The tapered rollers I've seen pics of all look like the cone angle is >> overly sharp, which would wedge the rollers tightly into the races. I >> think they should be flatter. >> Balls look more relaxed, like they'd accept loads equally well from all >> reasonable angles. > > Nope, it's the kind of job that tapered rollers are for - seems to me > that the load is being spread over a lot more bearing surface, ie the > full height of each cylindrical roller. With ball bearings you > wouldn't have that. I know the tapered rollers have more contact area, but neither radial nor thrust loads are applied normal (perpendicular) to the roller surfaces. I suppose the cone angle isn't extreme enough that it makes any difference. Ball races have concave channels around the balls. Loads from any direction will meet the races and balls normal to the contact surfaces.
From: paul c on 12 Feb 2010 11:27 Waz wrote: > On Feb 12, 1:03 pm, paul c <toledobythe...(a)oohay.ac> wrote: >> Thanks for posting. Very enjoyable videos, good luck on the rallies. >> >> (In the bead breaking episode I couldn't quite make out what the wheel >> was laying on but I liked the trick with the old garden hose.) > > The wheel was lying on a piece of old rag. > > My top tip with tyre changing/tube changing/puncture repair is when > levering the tyre back onto the rim, put something under the hub to > raise it off the ground about four inches. When you're trying to lever > the last bit of tyre back over the rim you can push the lever right > down, deforming the tyre so it drags the last few inches of bead over > the rim. Thanks. My 'top tip' is to make sure the opposite bead is in the centre of the rim, away from the sides of the rim, much less muscle needed that way. Some people don't do that and conclude they need a machine to mount a tire. Second one is what some m/c dealers around here forget, listen for two pops when setting beads. Suspect these points apply to tyres as well!
From: Mark Olson on 17 Feb 2010 15:24 Beryl wrote: > The existing ball race seated at the bottom of the steering stem, > against the lower triple clamp, wants to stay there. Special tool needed > to urge it off? A couple gear pullers that I have don't have long enough > fingers to reach. It doesn't look possible to hook under the edge of the > race either, it's tight against the triple clamp. Cut a slot in it with a dremel, & finish it off with a quick tap from a cold chisel. Or apply heat and watch it fall off. Heat will require replacing the dust seal, if there is one.
From: Beryl on 17 Feb 2010 19:57
Mark Olson wrote: > Beryl wrote: > >> The existing ball race seated at the bottom of the steering stem, >> against the lower triple clamp, wants to stay there. Special tool >> needed to urge it off? A couple gear pullers that I have don't have >> long enough fingers to reach. It doesn't look possible to hook under >> the edge of the race either, it's tight against the triple clamp. > > Cut a slot in it with a dremel, & finish it off with a quick tap from a > cold chisel. Or apply heat and watch it fall off. Heat will require > replacing the dust seal, if there is one. Thanks! The dust seal is deformed, I wanted to get at it anyway. |