From: Rob Kleinschmidt on
On May 15, 10:46 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> TigerJ <tsp...(a)talk21.com> wrote:
> > I think the battery is fine as I have fully charged it and the charger shows
> > it as being full.  Also, the headlight work fine.
>
> It's probably dead even so.

Agreed.

Could be a bad connection at ground or battery +, but
more likely to be the battery. An OK digital multimeter
can be bought for ~ $25. Buy one and check the battery
voltage or just lug the battery in to a shop and let them
test it for you.

From: No Spam on
"." <an.gleann.mor(a)gmail.com> wrote in news:a6ea1833-508b-432a-a074-
b63ea0ade95f(a)q36g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

>
> The motorcycle's alternator wattage is well matched to the
> motorcycle's battery ampere capacity.
>
> But the alternator might be damaged when using a partly discharged car
> battery to jump start it.
>

Not hardly, unless the voltage regulator and the rectifier diodes are
shorted. They isolate the alternator windings from reverse current.

If they were shorted... The battery would discharge through the
alternator windings, faster than a 20 amp charger could recharge it.
Charging the battery off the bike, then installing it would result in
melted insulation, until the main fuse blows.

regards,
Joe
From: No Spam on
"." <an.gleann.mor(a)gmail.com> wrote in
news:d95613a2-43a2-4a4d-a8ae-e5377e179285(a)v12g2000prb.googlegroups.com
:

>
> If you turn the headlight on, it should stay bright for at least
> half an hour without the battery voltage dropping below 12 volts.
>

Actually, that's not such a good idea. While the bike isn't old enough
to have points you could burn by leaving the ignition on that long, and
it isn't old enough to have a ballast resistor that you could overheat
and ruin by leaving the ignition on that long, still it's not a good
idea to leave it turned on that long while the engine isn't running.
Yes, your electronic ignition should have good enough protection
circuitry to keep from damaging it, but it's designed to handle voltage
spikes on the signal lines, not continuous current if the crankshaft
just happened to stop in exactly the wrong spot the last time you shut
the engine off.

That kind of test will tell you the battery had at least 3 amp hours of
charge when you were trying to start the bike. It won't tell you if the
battery has low enough internal resistance, to supply the starter with
enough current, to crank the engine over fast enough to start. To find
that out, you need to precisely measure the voltage at the battery
terminals, under a known load. This can be done with a good digital
voltmeter, using just a headlight for a load, but it has to be done off
the bike using a simple test jig.

regards,
Joe
From: The Older Gentleman on
No Spam <nospam(a)dont.bother.gov> wrote:

> Actually, that's not such a good idea. While the bike isn't old enough
> to have points you could burn by leaving the ignition on that long, and
> it isn't old enough to have a ballast resistor that you could overheat
> and ruin by leaving the ignition on that long, still it's not a good
> idea to leave it turned on that long while the engine isn't running.
> Yes, your electronic ignition should have good enough protection
> circuitry to keep from damaging it, but it's designed to handle voltage
> spikes on the signal lines, not continuous current if the crankshaft
> just happened to stop in exactly the wrong spot the last time you shut
> the engine off.

So use the kill switch as well. Sheesh.


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
From: . on
On May 16, 10:00 am, No Spam <nos...(a)dont.bother.gov> wrote:
> "." <an.gleann....(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > But the alternator might be damaged when using a partly discharged car
> > battery to jump start it.
>
> Not hardly, unless the voltage regulator and the rectifier diodes are
> shorted. They isolate the alternator windings from reverse current.

While that's true, the point I was trying to make is that the
motorcycle's alternator would try to *charge* the partly discharged
car battery *and* the discharged motorcycle battery, and that current
would be too much for the alternator windings and the RR diodes to
handle.

Other items that could be damaged are the plastic connectors from the
alternator and the RR to the motorcycle wire harness. They *melt*
under heavy load.