From: Eric on 23 Mar 2007 12:32 Hello, I put some old steel-bodied winged logo Koni shocks that I got at a swap meet on my Norton Commando. They were a big improvement on my worn out NJB's, but they're still a bit mushy I'm thinking they could use a change in oil. Good news is that they don't appear to leak at all. I asked someone at IKON about getting parts for them, they said that the design of Koni shock they were reproducing were a bit later, so they couldn't supply seals, etc. They recommended using 5 wt oil, but didn't say how much. It looks like I could probably just take the springs off the shocks unscrew the top of the shock body and change out the oil by turning the shock upside down and pumping it out. Has anyone done this before? Not sure how much to add. I was thinking that I could measure the amount of oil that comes out of each shock and put in whichever has more in it, if they have different amounts, due to slight leakage over the years. Thanks, Eric
From: chateau.murray on 23 Mar 2007 12:48 On 23 Mar, 17:32, "Eric" <eric.gofo...(a)gmail.com> wrote: > Hello, > > I put some old steel-bodied winged logo Koni shocks that I got at a > swap meet on my Norton Commando. They were a big improvement on my > worn out NJB's, but they're still a bit mushy I'm thinking they could > use a change in oil. Good news is that they don't appear to leak at > all. > > I asked someone at IKON about getting parts for them, they said that > the design of Koni shock they were reproducing were a bit later, so > they couldn't supply seals, etc. They recommended using 5 wt oil, but > didn't say how much. It looks like I could probably just take the > springs off the shocks unscrew the top of the shock body and change > out the oil by turning the shock upside down and pumping it out. > > Has anyone done this before? Not sure how much to add. I was > thinking that I could measure the amount of oil that comes out of each > shock and put in whichever has more in it, if they have different > amounts, due to slight leakage over the years. > It's quite commonly done. You really need a shock compressing tool, to compress the spring so that you can remove the split collets that hold it to the body. It is *exactly* like compressing a valve spring to remove the collets on that. Only bigger. Measuring the oil will be difficult, because you always get some left in the shock. Better to mark the oil level with a small scratch mark on the inside and refill to that level.
From: Eric on 23 Mar 2007 13:02 On Mar 23, 12:48 pm, chateau.mur...(a)btinternet.com, <chateau.mur...(a)btinternet.com> wrote: > On 23 Mar, 17:32, "Eric" <eric.gofo...(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > Hello, > > > I put some old steel-bodied winged logo Koni shocks that I got at a > > swap meet on my Norton Commando. They were a big improvement on my > > worn out NJB's, but they're still a bit mushy I'm thinking they could > > use a change in oil. Good news is that they don't appear to leak at > > all. > > > I asked someone at IKON about getting parts for them, they said that > > the design of Koni shock they were reproducing were a bit later, so > > they couldn't supply seals, etc. They recommended using 5 wt oil, but > > didn't say how much. It looks like I could probably just take the > > springs off the shocks unscrew the top of the shock body and change > > out the oil by turning the shock upside down and pumping it out. > > > Has anyone done this before? Not sure how much to add. I was > > thinking that I could measure the amount of oil that comes out of each > > shock and put in whichever has more in it, if they have different > > amounts, due to slight leakage over the years. > > It's quite commonly done. You really need a shock compressing tool, to > compress the spring so that you can remove the split collets that hold > it to the body. It is *exactly* like compressing a valve spring to > remove the collets on that. Only bigger. > > Measuring the oil will be difficult, because you always get some left > in the shock. Better to mark the oil level with a small scratch mark > on the inside and refill to that level. But how do I know how much oil to add? You mean look at where the oil level is , before I dump out the old oil? -Eric
From: The Older Gentleman on 23 Mar 2007 14:48 Eric <eric.goforth(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > Measuring the oil will be difficult, because you always get some left > > in the shock. Better to mark the oil level with a small scratch mark > > on the inside and refill to that level. > > But how do I know how much oil to add? You mean look at where the oil > level is , before I dump out the old oil? Er, yes, duh. -- BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 Z650 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3 BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
From: Potage St. Germaine on 23 Mar 2007 22:11 On Mar 23, 3:02?pm, Gene Cash <g...(a)autobogonzap.cfl.rr.com> wrote: > "Eric" <eric.gofo...(a)gmail.com> writes: > Yes, just like with forks. There's a motion-pro tool to do this, which > is a long metal tube that clips to the side. You set the clip to the oil > distance from the top and the tool sucks out oil until it's down to the > proper level. But he doesn't *know* what the correct level or volume of oil should be, so your suggestions are useless, as is TOG's idea that he should scratch a line on the inside of the shock body, because the OP doesn't know how much oil has wept out of the the shock over years of the rod stroking in and out of the seal. This shock may be a dual cylinder unpressurized air-over-oil type, with a piston on the end of the rod stroking up and down in the center cylinder, pushing oil oil of that cylinder through a hole connecting the center cylinder with the outer cylinder. The piston might have a rebound control valve on it, restricting oil flow as the shock extends and a foot valve attached to the bottom of the inner cylinder that blows off excess pressure on compression. How much oil would a shock like that need? I would think that filling the shock until the oil was up to the top of the inner cylinder would be work just fine. When the piston is inserted and pushed slowly to the bottom of the center tube, oil shouldn't overflow the outer tube, there should still be an airspace above the oil...
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