From: HardWorkingDog on 12 Jul 2010 21:12
> On Jul 12, 9:32�am, Tiago <diariodastril...(a)gmail.com> wrote:
> > Of my 94 RM125. I will never race it (as a matter of fact, I will
> > never race MX again, I still love my limbs). Original cylinder is
> > badly scored. Replate company 1000km+ away from me said at least R
> > $800, or almost USD500, after shipping is added. Replate company also
> > doesn't promise it will be replateable (is there such a thing? I
> > thought it would be, every time), because really there is a huge
> > scratch on it after running out of coolant while wfo and they need to
> > see it to tell if it is replateable and I'd be paying at least
> > shipping both ways.
Hmm, both the companies in the US i've used--Millenium Technologies and
Langcourt, Ltd., charge much less, around $200 USD plus shipping. Seems
like you could still be ahead even for shipping from Br to US. I'd be
willing to broker it if it would help. I wound up using a credit card to
pay for my Ozzie XT part, it arrived exactly one week after it was put
in the mail in Adelaide.
btw, without using google, does ANYONE on rmd know what an Australian
means by the word "arvo?"
"It's bad luck just SEEin' a thing like that..."
From: sturd on 12 Jul 2010 22:15
> btw, without using google, does ANYONE on rmd know what an Australian
> means by the word "arvo?"
Sure, just don't use the word abo that afternoon. McGarry almost
got beat for it.
Go fast. Take chances.
From: HardWorkingDog on 12 Jul 2010 22:43
sturd <mikesturdevant127(a)hotmail.com> wrote:
> HardWorkingDog asks:
> > btw, without using google, does ANYONE on rmd know what an Australian
> > means by the word "arvo?"
> Sure, just don't use the word abo that afternoon. McGarry almost
> got beat for it.
> Go fast. Take chances.
> Mike S.
abo seems grokable. But arvo??? where did THAT come from.
"It's bad luck just SEEin' a thing like that..."
From: sturd on 13 Jul 2010 07:42
> abo seems grokable. But arvo??? where did THAT come from.
No idea. Same place as calling the wild budgies "29's". I
researched (by asking everybody I came across) where that
came from but nobody had a clue.
Now that I think about it, maybe that number is wrong, been
a long time. But the budgies still get called by a number.
There are many mysteries in Aus.
Go fast. Take chances.
From: Tiago on 15 Jul 2010 14:46
On Jul 15, 3:23 pm, Wudsracer <babba...(a)Lucy.com> wrote:
> Tiago, my friend,
> Here, in my situation, it's cheaper to have a 2-stroke cylinder
> repaired/recoated than it is to have one sleeved. (Figuring in the
> cost of the sleeve, and then labor costs to have a competent mechanic
> bore the cylinder, and then match and chamfer the ports of the sleeve
> and the cylinder.) Most scratches can be just coated over, and a deep
> gouge can be welded (and rebored) before coating; although the welding
> raises the repair extra.
> If you have cheap (and good) labor available, the sleeve might be
> less cost, overall. It will work fine.
> The benefit of resleeving the cylinder will be that the sleeve can
> be rebored to an oversize when the bore gets worn.
> The drawback to resleeving is that (I was told) that the sleeved
> cylinder has slower heat transfer. (longer warm-up time, and possibly
> slightly hotter operating temps in extremely hot weather.)
> I know from experience that a resleeved cylinder will work well.
> Charles said that he would help you, and I am always glad to help
> you. Just figure the costs, make your decision, and let one of us
> know if you want to have the cylinder repaired/replated.
> If you decide on replating, you will need to remove all studs,
> manifolds, & etc. before you send the cylinder away for the work.
> Think "Naked Cylinder".
> I would advise against purchasing any used cylinder that you can not
> have measured and inspected, if not personally, then at least by a
> competent mechanic that you trust. (not on ebay, unless the feedback
> is alls positive and you feel really good about the deal.)
> It will most likely not save you money in the long run. Have your
> cylinder repaired or resleeved, instead.
> For the best results on a repair/recoat job, buy the piston kit from
> the repair company; so that they can precision hone the bore to
> perfectly match the piston (.015" to .002") clearance between piston
> and bore).
> If you can really save some money on the piston kit locally, then I
> would get it locally, and just measure everything before reassembly.
> (to have as a reference for later inspection and work)
> Upon reassembly, warm the engine thoroughly by gently riding the
> bike around at low rpms and low loads. Then, run it at high loads up
> to 50-60% rpms for 20 minutes or so. After that, run it at high loads
> for a few more runs up to top rpms. The high loads (not rpms, but
> engine load caused by full throttle) will raise compression, which
> will get behind the rings and force them to wear into and mate with
> the cylinder bore.
> Shut the engine down and check for leaks, loose bolts, or problems.
> If you find none, you should be good to go. Just warm the engine
> thoroughly before riding it, each time.
> Take care, and let us know what you decide to do.
> Take care,
> Jim (leaving for BMMP in NC in a few hours. (850 miles east northeast)
I ended up buying one used on eBay. It will cost less than half of the
cost of having it replated and about the same as if I had it
resleeved. I already bought the piston about six months ago. I'm
slowly buying parts for this bike - I don't see myself riding it
before 2011 though, car need parts, other bike need parts, little
CG125 commuter need parts and my wallet isn't bottomless <vbg>. The
guy I bought from (posted link on this same thread) seems to be honest
and I will take the chances, for the price I will be paying it will
worth it: about the same as a sleeve, slightly costlier shipping, but
I guess it worth the try. Every used part I bought from eBay until
today was so new and clean that I wonder if these bikes were ever
ridden! I can have the sleeving done cheaply, for about only 50 USD.
The problem I see is that two strokes are a dying breed, I am not 100%
sure if the guy (owner who I know) on the machine shop will do it
himself or let the trainee who never ever saw a hi-performance two
stroke in his life. That, really, is my biggest concern now. Well,
since I had bought the cylinder from eBay I will have two cylinders. I
might, in the future, have the badly scored one resleeved and keep the
one that I just bought on the nikasil plating.
After this, all I will need to make to bike run is cables (throtle and
clutch) and fork seals and *all* bearings, linkage, shock, wheels...
About more 350USD in bearings/seal. When finished, I will have three
times what the bike worth just in small parts... It will worth it. Two
nights ago, while riding the little CG back home, I had a "a-ha!"
moment. My XR250 features what Honda calls "Double High Sus" meaning
that it has a way to considerably lower it. All it takes is to slid
the forks down and reposition the shock on an already provided lower
(actually higher, making it go lower) bolt hole. So, I already have
bikes for both me & wife. She's not very thrilled, because biggest
bike she ever rode was a 150cc dual sport but she says she will go for
it. Which is great. I hope to get back on the trails by the end of
this year, at maximum. I blew both fork seals on the CG jumping it on
a "shortcut" through an unpaved road while commuting to work. Bike is
wife's, she's disgusted by the overall condition of the bike: dirt,
with fork oil splattered all over it... <g> Can't help! I'm working
10hrs/day + school at night, I arrive home 11pm and wake up 5am, no
time to wash... Bike was mint, like it belonged to a museum, before I
put my dirt hands on it. Vacations coming in 2 weeks, or, 11 more
riding days. Will fix it after I return.
Thanks Jim! Have a safe and pleasant trip!