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From: tomorrow on 27 May 2010 01:37 On May 26, 11:06 am, "Krusty Kritter" <ReekysResidentRacistAssholeMotherFucker...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > On May 26, 7:13 am, "TOG" > > <totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > > And right on cue.... yes, it was the reg/rec. > > Hopefully the RR wasn't covered under warranty and you had to shell > out another > £500 because of all your dark karma... Sucks to be wrong all the time, doesn't it, asswipe?
From: The Older Gentleman on 27 May 2010 02:19 S'mee <stevenkeith2(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > Classic YES...but body shops charge quiet a bit of dosh for actually > FIXING things instead of just replacing them. It's the same the world over. Something as complicated as a compound curve on a fuel tank is made by a very expensive metal press (or similar). If you want to replicate it or repair it by hand, it's going to take a lot of time and expertise and that means money. I'm always startled by how often people yammer, when faced with the cost of a proper repair: "But that's a quarter of the price of the bike!" And, if you think about, generally the answer is: "Yeah, so go and get the robot that built it in the first place, and it'll be cheaper." -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes! Try Googling before asking a damn silly question. chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
From: Robert Bolton on 27 May 2010 03:23 On Wed, 26 May 2010 09:33:49 -0600, Bob Myers <nospamplease(a)address.invalid> wrote: >On 5/26/2010 9:09 AM, S'mee wrote: >> On May 26, 7:24 am, "TOG(a)Toil"<totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote: >> >> >>> Looks like the reg/rec, but I can't understand why the battery >>> should run down if the thing is *over* charging. Anyway, it's under >>> warranty. >>> >> I'm sure you are correct and though I am not an electrical engineer, >> much less an expert...stuff happens with electircal systems. >> > >You've got that right, and I say that with some teeny bit of authority >since I ARE an electrical engineer....;-) > >Looks like this problem has already been correctly run down to the >rec/reg, and fixed, but I just wanted to add that the charging *voltage* >is not a complete indicator of the state of the charging system. What's >required is that the charging system be delivering sufficient charge >CURRENT (amps) to the battery (sufficient, but not more than a certain >amount) and at the correct voltage. A high charge voltage by itself >does not indicate anything about the charge current that you can >absolutely rely on. In fact, if anything a charge voltage over the >specified >number is generally indicative of a problem, as was found here. At the >very least, it shows that the "regulator" function of the >"rectifier/regulator" >isn't up to snuff. (Or possibly, depending on the nature of the regulator, >that insufficient current is being drawn so as to enable the voltage >regulation to properly happen.) > I wonder if your parenthetical wasn't close to being the case. Having high voltage but requiring a jump reeks of a bad connection somewhere, presuming a good battery. I have to confess to being biased in wanting that to be the case though, as my bike's voltmeter began reading high at times this fall. I recently discovered loose connections at the battery (both hot and ground), and am hoping I solved the mystery by tightening the connections. No rush to find out. A visit to the doctor today slipped the wife's recovery date 3 weeks down the road. Robert
From: TOG on 27 May 2010 04:34 On 27 May, 08:23, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...(a)gci.net> wrote: > I wonder if your parenthetical wasn't close to being the case. Having > high voltage but requiring a jump reeks of a bad connection somewhere, > presuming a good battery. I have to confess to being biased in > wanting that to be the case though, as my bike's voltmeter began > reading high at times this fall. I recently discovered loose > connections at the battery (both hot and ground), and am hoping I > solved the mystery by tightening the connections. > Interesting. The dealer has confirmed that the reg/rec is toast. How this happened on a 2,000-mile bike is anyone's guess. But my limited experience with bike electrics is that they either fail because of corrosion in the connections (not an issue here) or simply because they just feel like it. > No rush to find out. A visit to the doctor today slipped the wife's > recovery date 3 weeks down the road. > Ah. Oh dear.
From: S'mee on 27 May 2010 09:11
On May 27, 12:19 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > S'mee <stevenkei...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > > Classic YES...but body shops charge quiet a bit of dosh for actually > > FIXING things instead of just replacing them. > > It's the same the world over. Something as complicated as a compound > curve on a fuel tank is made by a very expensive metal press (or > similar). If you want to replicate it or repair it by hand, it's going > to take a lot of time and expertise and that means money. Yep if you are faintly familar with the fuel tank of the old T-500. This dent is on the top left rear...right where you have three lines intersecting. Size wise it's a bit larger than a hens egg and 1-2cm deep. =8^O That was caused by some "I know what I'm doing" type going too fast over a bridge. > I'm always startled by how often people yammer, when faced with the cost > of a proper repair: "But that's a quarter of the price of the bike!" Yep that's why if you just need to swap parts don't pay somebody. If it's metal work and you REALLY want to keep it...learn to work metal. The work might not be pretty but if it holds who cares? > And, if you think about, generally the answer is: "Yeah, so go and get > the robot that built it in the first place, and it'll be cheaper." I dunno...I keep thanking my stars I can't afford a 5axis cnc equpment. Much less the gas/electric bills for my own small foundry...enough say to cast a v12 block and heads a week. 8^) sheesh...I'd NEVER get out of the yard. |