From: seabreeze on
I adjusted my tappets as they seemed a little noisy. Did it according
to both Clymer and Haynes manuals to double check everything done ok.
Stilll pretty noisy though bike running fine. Did the front again
nearer to the smaller gap size, still the same. They are quiet when
engine first starts, get noiser as it starts to warm up, then when
really warm are a little quieter. I have tried listening to other
viragos for comparison but it must be a subjective thing - they sound
quieter - but maybe it's just me being nuerotic. What I don't like
about the noise is that it sort of fades out then comes back a little
and isn't completely constant.

The bike has done an indicated 9600 miles, and is a 1994 model.

Is there any way to guess or check if the level of tappet noise is
normal or excessive, and if so, what might need doing?
From: The Older Gentleman on
seabreeze <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote:

> I adjusted my tappets as they seemed a little noisy. Did it according
> to both Clymer and Haynes manuals to double check everything done ok.
> Stilll pretty noisy though bike running fine. Did the front again
> nearer to the smaller gap size, still the same. They are quiet when
> engine first starts, get noiser as it starts to warm up, then when
> really warm are a little quieter. I have tried listening to other
> viragos for comparison but it must be a subjective thing - they sound
> quieter - but maybe it's just me being nuerotic. What I don't like
> about the noise is that it sort of fades out then comes back a little
> and isn't completely constant.
>
> The bike has done an indicated 9600 miles, and is a 1994 model.
>
> Is there any way to guess or check if the level of tappet noise is
> normal or excessive, and if so, what might need doing?

A slack camchain can often sound exactly like excessive tappet clearance
noise.

Check the camchain(s) tension?

--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
From: seabreeze on
On 19 Aug, 21:33, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman)
wrote:
> seabreeze <corrie...(a)yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I adjusted my tappets as they seemed a little noisy. Did it according
> > to both Clymer and Haynes manuals to double check everything done ok.
> > Stilll pretty noisy though bike running fine. Did the front again
> > nearer to the smaller gap size, still the same. They are quiet when
> > engine first starts, get noiser as it starts to warm up, then when
> > really warm are a little quieter. I have tried listening to other
> > viragos for comparison but it must be a subjective thing - they sound
> > quieter - but maybe it's just me being nuerotic. What I don't like
> > about the noise is that it sort of fades out then comes back a little
> > and isn't completely constant.
>
> > The bike has done an indicated 9600 miles, and is a 1994 model.
>
> > Is there any way to guess or check if the level of tappet noise is
> > normal or excessive, and if so, what might need doing?
>
> A slack camchain can often sound exactly like excessive tappet clearance
> noise.
>
> Check the camchain(s) tension?
>
> --
> BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Yamaha XT600E  Honda CB400F
> chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> "What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
> and hassle for no tangible benefit."

Thanks for the reply.

Do you know how easy or otherwise on this bike it is to check camchain
tension?
From: Who Me? on

"seabreeze" <corriequk(a)yahoo.com> wrote

> What I don't like
> about the noise is that it sort of fades out then comes back a little
> and isn't completely constant.
>

Like it or not, that's pretty much how it IS with solid lifters.
The clearances change as the various parts heat up.

The cam chain suggestion notwithstanding, I'd say you need to get used to
it.


From: . on
On Aug 19, 1:31�pm, seabreeze <corrie...(a)yahoo.com> wrote:

> Is there any way to guess or check if the level of tappet noise is
> normal or excessive, and if so, what might need doing?

Screw type adjusters will break through the surface hardening of the
valves and dig a shallow "dish" in the stem.

When the uninitiated home mechanic attempts to adjust the valve with
an ordinary flat feeler guage blade, the blade doesn't reveal the fact
the valves are "dished".

The home mechanic finishes up the job and has noisy valves.

The only way I can think of to prove whether are not your valve stems
are dished is to set them with the feeler gauge, then use a dial
indicator to measure what the valve lash *actually* is.

So far as cam chain adjustment is concerned, there are two *automatic*
cam chain adjusters, one for the front cylinder and one for the rear
cylinder.

http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/YAM/2/02/0188/0005.Gif

If you think the automatic adjuster isn't doing its thing, remove the
plug and insert something skinny into the whole and gently push the
plunger.

You'll hear one, or at most two clicks as the internal ratchet engages
the
notches on the side of the plunger.