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From: BryanUT on 11 Mar 2010 19:43 Usenet is not my only playground, I got this tip elsewhere after posting this pic of me a Miller Motorsports park: http://imgur.com/3YJJE.jpg Nice man. I'll be at miller in may for SBK, OOOO-WEEE! CCTL, Cam chain tensioner lifter, yes, same thing. The OE ones are 'automatic' they work via spring, a shitty spring which wares out long before it should. APE manual tensioners are preferred because they can't 'fail'. If an auto tensioner lets go it can absolutely destroy a motor. I'm fixing a 600rr at the moment with the very problem, new cams, chain blades... big money. R/R is your regulator/rectifier. It's one of three major components in you bike's charging system (alternator and battery being the others) It's job is to regulate the relatively high voltage from the alternator down so the battery can take it, and rectifies the current from AC to DC. It's just a diode loop with an in and out. They are very prone to failure on all motorcycles but the CBR's seam to have especially bad ones. This is a component that is better to be replaced with a third party product such as Rick's electronics. Much cheaper than OEM and honestly more reliable. With 26K miles on the bike I would personally take off the tail fairing and inspect the back side of the R/R looking for bulging wires or hot spots, and check the stator (alternator) wires from the R/R (three yellow). The connector between the two components is usually the first place you will see heat building. Most people find out their charging system is done because the battery's dead. They buy a new battery which dies one or two rides later. Then the bike is trucked to the repair shop for some expensive labour. If you catch it before it fails (buy the replacement ahead of time) it's a quick and cheep fix. You shouldn't need a new battery or stator, but sometimes that is the case. If you're handy with a multi meter it's very easy to test you charging system and all it's components. an hour of prevention could easily save you $300 in labour.
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