From: "LarryInEastTn" Eff _ on
Shirley a round of Young's Double Chocolate Stouts for everyone that's
gathered here tonight, while I pick at the collective knowledge base. It
appears that my compensating sprocket nut may have loosened due to general
abuse of the entire drivetrain, hell the entire motorcycle if the truth were
told<g>, and while perusing the manual for the torque value I found the
following:

"Used sprocket nut: apply two drops of red loctite to threads, hand tighten
in clockwise direction. Insert primary drive locking tool on top strand of
primary chain. Tighten engine compensating sprocket nut to 75 ft-lbs. Mark
a straight line on the engine compensating sprocket nut, continuing the line
over onto the sprocket cover. Tighten the engine compensating sprocket nut
an additional 45 to 50 degrees."

IIRC wasn't there a bulletin about an update to the torque process? A
higher torque value, more additional degrees after torque value was
attained, something? Anybody else remember something about this? Also
would you go ahead and remove the nut, & re-loctite it, or just torque it
down to specs, whatever that may turn out to be? Go ahead and get another
Stout from Shirley, if you can get Kickstart to leave her alone long enough,
while I contemplate if I want to risk death and/or serious injury by not
unhooking the battery when I start working on it.
--
Larry
2006 FLHTC



From: Johan Rossi BS#229 on
LarryInEastTn wrote:
<snip>

> IIRC wasn't there a bulletin about an update to the torque process? A
> higher torque value, more additional degrees after torque value was
> attained, something? Anybody else remember something about this?

There's this one, but it doesn't apply to yours.
Anything else I can not help you with? <g>
Also, it's a negative on those part #s for the Deuce sliders, thanks for
looking, and the offer.

++++++++++++++++

M-1170 Compensating Sprocket Torque Procedure
May 27, 2005

Purpose
This Bulletin documents a torque and turn-of-nut procedure for
tightening the engine compensating sprocket. This procedure improves the
clamp load on this assembly and replaces the present tighten-to-torque
procedure.

Motorcycles Affected

All 2003 through 2005 Touring, Softail, and Dyna model motorcycles
including CVO models with Twin-Cam engines. Production vehicles began
using this procedure May, 2005.

Dealer Action

Update all service literature and notify service technicians. To assure
this procedure is used, insert this Service Bulletin number in the
TORQUE VALUES tables in Section 6.1 SPECIFICATIONS of the Service
Manuals covering Touring, Softail and Dyna models for model years 2003
through 2005.

From: TL Mitchell on
"LarryInEastTn" <Eff _ Ewe(a)calmcast.nerd> wrote

> Shirley a round of Young's Double Chocolate Stouts for everyone

Why does that somehow sound synonymous with Hershey Squirts?

<snippage re: Larry's nut>

You can't trade it on an '09 with a loose nut?

112


From: Ryder Rick on
On 2008-09-23 16:27:22 -0700, "LarryInEastTn" <Eff _ Ewe(a)calmcast.nerd> said:

> Shirley a round of Young's Double Chocolate Stouts for everyone that's
> gathered here tonight, while I pick at the collective knowledge base. It
> appears that my compensating sprocket nut may have loosened due to general
> abuse of the entire drivetrain, hell the entire motorcycle if the truth were
> told<g>, and while perusing the manual for the torque value I found the
> following:
>
> "Used sprocket nut: apply two drops of red loctite to threads, hand tighten
> in clockwise direction. Insert primary drive locking tool on top strand of
> primary chain. Tighten engine compensating sprocket nut to 75 ft-lbs. Mark
> a straight line on the engine compensating sprocket nut, continuing the line
> over onto the sprocket cover. Tighten the engine compensating sprocket nut
> an additional 45 to 50 degrees."
>
> IIRC wasn't there a bulletin about an update to the torque process? A
> higher torque value, more additional degrees after torque value was
> attained, something? Anybody else remember something about this? Also
> would you go ahead and remove the nut, & re-loctite it, or just torque it
> down to specs, whatever that may turn out to be? Go ahead and get another
> Stout from Shirley, if you can get Kickstart to leave her alone long enough,
> while I contemplate if I want to risk death and/or serious injury by not
> unhooking the battery when I start working on it.

You must remove the compensator nut and clean out all traces of the
previous Locktite so the compensator nut tightens down correctly. I
have a junk crank I thread the nut onto to be sure it bottoms out
completlely. You must also remove all oil from the nut and shaft for
the new application of Locktite to be effective.

Apply two drops of red to the inside of the nut and 2 drops on the
shaft threads. I have a big electric impact that runs the nut down to
150 ft lbs very nicely. Never had one come loose (done plenty this way)
(very hard to get back off after this treatment).

Save the Youngs for someone who can appreciate it, make mine a Rum & Coke
--
Ryder Rick
< >

From: Schmoe on
"LarryInEastTn" <Eff _ Ewe(a)calmcast.nerd> wrote in message
> Shirley a round of Young's Double Chocolate Stouts for everyone that's
> gathered here tonight, while I pick at the collective knowledge base.

Hmmm, excellent choice, tks for the beer.

> It appears that my compensating sprocket nut may have loosened due to
> general abuse of the entire drivetrain, hell the entire motorcycle if the
> truth were told<g>,

After watching you disappear into hi-speed turns on the Dragon, this is no
surprise. You ride it like you're on a Huyabusa. H-D's were not meant for
that. Have you considered a Harley-Davidson MV Agusta?

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