Ultra classic cruise control - Fixed
in [Harley-Davidson]
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From: DM on 7 Mar 2010 11:11 Have a round on me, although this repair was a dent on the wallet. Coulda got some new tires instead. Sometime during the 2009 PBR the cruise control on my 2007 FLHTCU quit working. Riding through Oklahoma on the way to California, IIRC the bike suddenly accelerated by itself. I disengaged the cruise control, and after that it would no longer engage. Indicator on the dash was lit orange but would never go green. Basically I just couldn't set the cruise control. When I got home I went through the diagnostic steps enough to know that the switches were working. That just left the control module (I hoped). Finally bit the bullet on the control module two weeks ago. $331.49 at the dealer, $264.80 from Chicago Harley. Gotta love those guys. Had 'em throw a few more filters, spark plugs, and odo reset switch in with it to take advantage of the shipping I was already paying for. It arrived yesterday. Vina started washing her car the same time I started work on the bike. Remove the air filter to access the clip on the end of the control cable. It operates the butterfly. Damn, when's the last time I cleaned that filter? Cleaned it, time for a new one since the rubber on this one is about shot. Next time I remove it will be its last. Remove the battery since the mounting studs enter the battery box, probably the hardest part of this operation. Remove the left side saddlebag and side cover to access the module. Disconnect one electrical cable and the other end of the control cable that I had disconnected from the butterfly. Unbolt the module from the bike. Three studs, mounted on rubber grommets that want to fall out. Be careful, one fell down near the drive belt. The control cable has a ball end that fits into a clip on the end of a 1/4" nylon ribbon. You can look inside the module and see the ribbon is wound around a spool. Visible nylon gearing shows how this thing works. Lots of slack when this thing is new, so I had Vina pull on the butterfly end of the cable to keep tension on while I connected the other end to the control module. I didn't want that ball end coming out of the clip. Once it was firmly connected she could let go. Her assistance was probably less than one minute. The directions said to connect that control cable after I had bolted the new module to the bike, I found it easier to connect before I mounted it. Bolted the module on, applied the electrical connector. Reconnected the butterfly end, replaced the battery, air filter, saddlebag, and side panel. There's a 30-second procedure that has to be performed before using this thing, it takes up the slack in the ribbon cable and calibrates the module to your bike. No choice here, you have it do it. Warm up the bike and run through the steps, everything is working as expected. I finished the same time Vina finished washing the car. We changed into proper riding attire and rode to the Lodi Beer Co for dinner. Cruise control works fine. Another round on me if you made it this far. -- Fins BS#221 AH#135 2007 FLHTCU I think its gonna be a great day.
From: snarl on 7 Mar 2010 12:46 On Sun, 07 Mar 2010 08:11:37 -0800, DM <fins(a)nospam.bs221.com> wrote: >Have a round on me, although this repair was a dent on the wallet. >Coulda got some new tires instead. > >Sometime during the 2009 PBR the cruise control on my 2007 FLHTCU quit >working. Riding through Oklahoma on the way to California, IIRC the bike >suddenly accelerated by itself. I disengaged the cruise control, and >after that it would no longer engage. Indicator on the dash was lit >orange but would never go green. Basically I just couldn't set the >cruise control. When I got home I went through the diagnostic steps >enough to know that the switches were working. That just left the >control module (I hoped). > >Finally bit the bullet on the control module two weeks ago. $331.49 at >the dealer, $264.80 from Chicago Harley. Gotta love those guys. Had 'em >throw a few more filters, spark plugs, and odo reset switch in with it >to take advantage of the shipping I was already paying for. > >It arrived yesterday. Vina started washing her car the same time I >started work on the bike. >Remove the air filter to access the clip on the end of the control >cable. It operates the butterfly. Damn, when's the last time I cleaned >that filter? Cleaned it, time for a new one since the rubber on this one >is about shot. Next time I remove it will be its last. >Remove the battery since the mounting studs enter the battery box, >probably the hardest part of this operation. >Remove the left side saddlebag and side cover to access the module. >Disconnect one electrical cable and the other end of the control cable >that I had disconnected from the butterfly. >Unbolt the module from the bike. Three studs, mounted on rubber grommets >that want to fall out. Be careful, one fell down near the drive belt. >The control cable has a ball end that fits into a clip on the end of a >1/4" nylon ribbon. You can look inside the module and see the ribbon is >wound around a spool. Visible nylon gearing shows how this thing works. >Lots of slack when this thing is new, so I had Vina pull on the >butterfly end of the cable to keep tension on while I connected the >other end to the control module. I didn't want that ball end coming out >of the clip. Once it was firmly connected she could let go. Her >assistance was probably less than one minute. >The directions said to connect that control cable after I had bolted the >new module to the bike, I found it easier to connect before I mounted it. >Bolted the module on, applied the electrical connector. Reconnected the >butterfly end, replaced the battery, air filter, saddlebag, and side panel. >There's a 30-second procedure that has to be performed before using this >thing, it takes up the slack in the ribbon cable and calibrates the >module to your bike. No choice here, you have it do it. Warm up the bike >and run through the steps, everything is working as expected. >I finished the same time Vina finished washing the car. We changed into >proper riding attire and rode to the Lodi Beer Co for dinner. Cruise >control works fine. > >Another round on me if you made it this far. Thanky. So what failed in th' original? Snarl
From: DM on 7 Mar 2010 13:01 On 3/7/2010 9:46 AM, snarl(a)trippin.com wrote: > > Thanky. > > So what failed in th' original? > Could have been any number of things. Besides the handlebar switch inputs there are also inputs to the module for ignition, brakes, throttle rolloff, enginespeed and speed signal. Any internal circuitry related to one of those goes bad and the module won't work. Brakes and throttle rolloff were good, part of the diagnostic testing. Since the diagnostic testing is done with the bike stationary and engine off I'd say it had to do with one of those. -- Fins BS#221 AH#135 2007 FLHTCU I think its gonna be a great day.
From: DM on 7 Mar 2010 13:11 On 3/7/2010 10:01 AM, DM wrote: > On 3/7/2010 9:46 AM, snarl(a)trippin.com wrote: > >> >> Thanky. >> >> So what failed in th' original? >> > Could have been any number of things. Besides the handlebar switch > inputs there are also inputs to the module for ignition, brakes, > throttle rolloff, enginespeed and speed signal. Any internal circuitry > related to one of those goes bad and the module won't work. Brakes and > throttle rolloff were good, part of the diagnostic testing. Since the > diagnostic testing is done with the bike stationary and engine off I'd > say it had to do with one of those. > Meaning: engine speed or speed signal. -- Fins BS#221 AH#135 2007 FLHTCU I think its gonna be a great day.
From: snarl on 7 Mar 2010 15:48
On Sun, 07 Mar 2010 10:11:01 -0800, DM <fins(a)nospam.bs221.com> wrote: >On 3/7/2010 10:01 AM, DM wrote: >> On 3/7/2010 9:46 AM, snarl(a)trippin.com wrote: >>> >>> Thanky. >>> >>> So what failed in th' original? >>> >> Could have been any number of things. Besides the handlebar switch >> inputs there are also inputs to the module for ignition, brakes, >> throttle rolloff, enginespeed and speed signal. Any internal circuitry >> related to one of those goes bad and the module won't work. Brakes and >> throttle rolloff were good, part of the diagnostic testing. Since the >> diagnostic testing is done with the bike stationary and engine off I'd >> say it had to do with one of those. >> >Meaning: engine speed or speed signal. Otay, just so I understand, it failed by going WFO then you manually overode that and it never worked again 'til th' replacement, yes? Seems like Roger M's did th' WFO deal too. Don't recall if he's mentioned using it since. Is H-D goin' Toyota on ya's <g>. Snarl |