Unitrack removal / strip-down?
in [UK Motorcycles]
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From: T i m on 1 Sep 2008 08:41 Hi all, I've just got the front brakes cleaned and re-bled on this 85 GPz550 (pre MOT / road test etc) and as I'm waiting for rear brake parts I thought I'd check over any remaining items that could be serviced (and / or be MOT / general running issues). I read somewhere (a GPz forum) that the Unitracks should ideally be stripped, cleaned and lubed once in a while? Either way, would it be a good idea to do so as this bike has been standing (pretty much) for the last 7 years? Any hints or tips re doing so would be appreciated (I've not been given the HBOL yet). Any bits I should or shouldn't touch? All the best .. T i m
From: JB on 1 Sep 2008 09:16 "T i m" <news(a)spaced.me.uk> wrote in message news:l1onb4lcp9jeviml54o50dmkrcjt8d55nu(a)4ax.com... > Hi all, > > I've just got the front brakes cleaned and re-bled on this 85 GPz550 > (pre MOT / road test etc) and as I'm waiting for rear brake parts I > thought I'd check over any remaining items that could be serviced (and > / or be MOT / general running issues). > > I read somewhere (a GPz forum) that the Unitracks should ideally be > stripped, cleaned and lubed once in a while? > Yup. Ideally every 10-15k miles. That way you know it will come apart next time. Ask me how I know this. > Either way, would it be a good idea to do so as this bike has been > standing (pretty much) for the last 7 years? Mandatory (if you're going to keep the bike). If poorly manitained, the small diameter 'drawn-cup' needle roller bearings often corrode and break up, damaging the hardened shaft sliding/rotating in them. Worst case you'd be looking at many hours fun and games cutting/grinding/hammering the lot apart, then >�200 for new parts. If you need to fit new bearings yourself, you'll need someone with a lathe to turn you up some insertion mandrels to stop you wrecking the new bearings. You can also get aftermarket retrofit nylon bushes to replace the needle rollers, but these don't last as long in service. > > Any hints or tips re doing so would be appreciated (I've not been > given the HBOL yet). Any bits I should or shouldn't touch? Have a look at ebay for a genuine manual. They sometimes come up cheaply. JB
From: T i m on 1 Sep 2008 09:37 On Mon, 1 Sep 2008 13:56:02 +0100, Nick <null(a)0.0.0.0> wrote: >In article <l1onb4lcp9jeviml54o50dmkrcjt8d55nu(a)4ax.com>, >T i m <news(a)spaced.me.uk> wrote: >>Any hints or tips re doing so would be appreciated (I've not been >>given the HBOL yet). Any bits I should or shouldn't touch? > >Is this any help? Different bike I know but basically it's the same >thing in terms of cleaning and then re-lubricating with a moly-type >grease. > >http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Uni_Trak_Shock_Linkage_Lubrication Thanks for that Nick. It's nice to see the before and after work and I often wonder how long things had been left to get like that? I believe my 550 uses needle rollers (if they haven't already been swapped out for plain bushes) and I can picture the scene already .. with 25 half and triangular 'needles' falling on the floor. :-( All the best .. T i m
From: T i m on 1 Sep 2008 10:05 On Mon, 1 Sep 2008 14:16:49 +0100, "JB" <nil(a)spam.net> wrote: >> I read somewhere (a GPz forum) that the Unitracks should ideally be >> stripped, cleaned and lubed once in a while? >> >Yup. Ideally every 10-15k miles. Ok, but as I have no idea if / when they were last done I had better do so. > That way you know it will come apart next >time. Yup. And there's nothing like knowing all the intimacies of yer steed is there (well I think so anyway). >Ask me how I know this. Hehe > >> Either way, would it be a good idea to do so as this bike has been >> standing (pretty much) for the last 7 years? > >Mandatory (if you're going to keep the bike). Understood. I don't know that I am but the only way I'm not is if 1) I find out there is something major wrong with it once I get it on the road and / or 2) I really don't like the ride (bike or fit etc). > If poorly manitained, the >small diameter 'drawn-cup' needle roller bearings often corrode and break >up, damaging the hardened shaft sliding/rotating in them. Been there, seen that .. :-( > Worst case you'd >be looking at many hours fun and games cutting/grinding/hammering the lot >apart, then >�200 for new parts. And that's the killer isn't it JB, the cost of some of this stuff. And I'm not sure that adding �200 worth of parts is going to make it any more than 'a hack'? > If you need to fit new bearings yourself, >you'll need someone with a lathe to turn you up some insertion mandrels to >stop you wrecking the new bearings. Myford ML10 and some steel / ally stock in the workshop (and I like finding genuine reasons to use the lathe). > You can also get aftermarket retrofit >nylon bushes to replace the needle rollers, but these don't last as long in >service. Ok. > >> >> Any hints or tips re doing so would be appreciated (I've not been >> given the HBOL yet). Any bits I should or shouldn't touch? > >Have a look at ebay for a genuine manual. They sometimes come up cheaply. I've just picked up a handbook (for an A1 though and mines an A2) and I have been using the fiche stuff from here (which is brilliant) http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1985-a2-zx550_model12811/partslist/ But a manual would be great. All the best and thanks .. T i m p.s. Do I just drop the Unitrack link off the monoshock, frame and swinging arm or is there anything to do on the damper top mount please?
From: JB on 1 Sep 2008 10:37
"T i m" <news(a)spaced.me.uk> wrote in message news:b6snb4tddcre2963bmb2rnk1qcqm2le38n(a)4ax.com... > On Mon, 1 Sep 2008 14:16:49 +0100, "JB" <nil(a)spam.net> wrote: > > >>> I read somewhere (a GPz forum) that the Unitracks should ideally be >>> stripped, cleaned and lubed once in a while? >>> >>Yup. Ideally every 10-15k miles. > > Ok, but as I have no idea if / when they were last done I had better > do so. > >> That way you know it will come apart next >>time. > > Yup. And there's nothing like knowing all the intimacies of yer steed > is there (well I think so anyway). > >>Ask me how I know this. > > Hehe >> >>> Either way, would it be a good idea to do so as this bike has been >>> standing (pretty much) for the last 7 years? >> >>Mandatory (if you're going to keep the bike). > > Understood. I don't know that I am but the only way I'm not is if 1) I > find out there is something major wrong with it once I get it on the > road and / or 2) I really don't like the ride (bike or fit etc). > >> If poorly manitained, the >>small diameter 'drawn-cup' needle roller bearings often corrode and break >>up, damaging the hardened shaft sliding/rotating in them. > > Been there, seen that .. :-( > >> Worst case you'd >>be looking at many hours fun and games cutting/grinding/hammering the lot >>apart, then >�200 for new parts. > > And that's the killer isn't it JB, the cost of some of this stuff. And > I'm not sure that adding �200 worth of parts is going to make it any > more than 'a hack'? > >> If you need to fit new bearings yourself, >>you'll need someone with a lathe to turn you up some insertion mandrels to >>stop you wrecking the new bearings. > > Myford ML10 and some steel / ally stock in the workshop (and I like > finding genuine reasons to use the lathe). > >> You can also get aftermarket retrofit >>nylon bushes to replace the needle rollers, but these don't last as long >>in >>service. > > Ok. >> >>> >>> Any hints or tips re doing so would be appreciated (I've not been >>> given the HBOL yet). Any bits I should or shouldn't touch? >> >>Have a look at ebay for a genuine manual. They sometimes come up cheaply. > > I've just picked up a handbook (for an A1 though and mines an A2) and > I have been using the fiche stuff from here (which is brilliant) > > http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1985-a2-zx550_model12811/partslist/ > > But a manual would be great. > > All the best and thanks .. > > T i m > > p.s. Do I just drop the Unitrack link off the monoshock, frame and > swinging arm or is there anything to do on the damper top mount > please? You can leave the shock in place (at the top mount anyway). JB |