motogroove van made me walk
in [ATVs]
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From: XR650L_Dave on 5 Jun 2007 08:12 On Jun 4, 9:25 am, "Dean H." <m...(a)groove.calm> wrote: > >> blowing pinion seals > >>u-joint. > > So, for this week's Chevy quiz: > I've noticed a ticking noise which varies directly with road speed > (independant of engine speed). I can only hear it at low speeds if I'm next > to a building or some other sound-reflecting object. U-joint seems like the > most probable culprit, although it all seemed plenty tight last weekend with > a very casual inspection. Maybe my pencil arms don't generate the same kind > of forces a 305 does. I'm not sure it's any more of a problem than a little > ticking noise, so I'm not panicked. I think it's been there a while and I'm > just listening a little harder now; paying a bit more attention. Maybe I'll > drop some fresh oil in the diff. > > There is that magic time in a vehicle's life where stuff starts coming due. > For many, it's a good time to sell and let somebody else have what Chip > calls the second half of the vehicle. I think I'll ride it out with this > one. > > Okay, enough rain now. Ticking would likely not be a Ujoint, but it could be. Could be a stone in a tire tread- or a nail. Could be a stone (or worse, a lug nut) under a hubcap. Popular prank, this one. Could be a heat shield getting tapped by a Ujoint. Try to 'see' if it follows a cadence of once-per-wheel-rotation, or if its faster than that. Ujoints usually give the driveshaft a good "ring" when you go reverse- drive-r-d-r-d when thay are starting to fail "loose", they tend to squeak when they fail "tight". A bad ujoint may display a halo of rust around that part of the driveshaft, and after a drive, the bad joint may be significantly hotter than the other joint(s). If you have a 2-piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing, the bearing could be failing, or the rubber holding it in place could be getting loose or deteriorating. Unless its obviously loose (and you really have to jack up the rear to get the driveshaft to spin to see it) it can be hard to diagnose a bad Ujoint without at least disconnecting the shaft from the rear axle and wiggling the joints. I think I have a bad Ujoint myself, at the moment. DDave
From: dsc-ky on 5 Jun 2007 08:13 On Jun 5, 4:13 am, "Dean H." <m...(a)groove.calm> wrote: > "dsc-ky" <Cornm...(a)gmail.com> wrote in message > > news:1181009171.794911.34960(a)k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com... > > > > > > > On Jun 4, 9:25 am, "Dean H." <m...(a)groove.calm> wrote: > >> >> blowing pinion seals > >> >>u-joint. > > >> So, for this week's Chevy quiz: > >> I've noticed a ticking noise which varies directly with road speed > >> (independant of engine speed). I can only hear it at low speeds if I'm > >> next > >> to a building or some other sound-reflecting object. U-joint seems like > >> the > >> most probable culprit, although it all seemed plenty tight last weekend > >> with > >> a very casual inspection. Maybe my pencil arms don't generate the same > >> kind > >> of forces a 305 does. I'm not sure it's any more of a problem than a > >> little > >> ticking noise, so I'm not panicked. I think it's been there a while and > >> I'm > >> just listening a little harder now; paying a bit more attention. Maybe > >> I'll > >> drop some fresh oil in the diff. > > >> There is that magic time in a vehicle's life where stuff starts coming > >> due. > >> For many, it's a good time to sell and let somebody else have what Chip > >> calls the second half of the vehicle. I think I'll ride it out with this > >> one. > > >> Okay, enough rain now. > > > Exhaust leak??? > > Weak lifter??? > > Goes with road speed, not engine speed. Those would go with engine speed.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Oh... I was thinking engine speed... duh.
From: XR650L_Dave on 5 Jun 2007 08:18 On Jun 5, 8:12 am, XR650L_Dave <spamTHIS...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > On Jun 4, 9:25 am, "Dean H." <m...(a)groove.calm> wrote: > > > > > >> blowing pinion seals > > >>u-joint. > > > So, for this week's Chevy quiz: > > I've noticed a ticking noise which varies directly with road speed > > (independant of engine speed). I can only hear it at low speeds if I'm next > > to a building or some other sound-reflecting object. U-joint seems like the > > most probable culprit, although it all seemed plenty tight last weekend with > > a very casual inspection. Maybe my pencil arms don't generate the same kind > > of forces a 305 does. I'm not sure it's any more of a problem than a little > > ticking noise, so I'm not panicked. I think it's been there a while and I'm > > just listening a little harder now; paying a bit more attention. Maybe I'll > > drop some fresh oil in the diff. > > > There is that magic time in a vehicle's life where stuff starts coming due. > > For many, it's a good time to sell and let somebody else have what Chip > > calls the second half of the vehicle. I think I'll ride it out with this > > one. > > > Okay, enough rain now. > > Ticking would likely not be a Ujoint, but it could be. > Could be a stone in a tire tread- or a nail. > Could be a stone (or worse, a lug nut) under a hubcap. Popular prank, > this one. > Could be a heat shield getting tapped by a Ujoint. > > Try to 'see' if it follows a cadence of once-per-wheel-rotation, or if > its faster than that. > > Ujoints usually give the driveshaft a good "ring" when you go reverse- > drive-r-d-r-d when thay are starting to fail "loose", they tend to > squeak when they fail "tight". > > A bad ujoint may display a halo of rust around that part of the > driveshaft, and after a drive, the bad joint may be significantly > hotter than the other joint(s). > > If you have a 2-piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing, the bearing > could be failing, or the rubber holding it in place could be getting > loose or deteriorating. > > Unless its obviously loose (and you really have to jack up the rear to > get the driveshaft to spin to see it) it can be hard to diagnose a bad > Ujoint without at least disconnecting the shaft from the rear axle and > wiggling the joints. > > I think I have a bad Ujoint myself, at the moment. > > DDave Oh, and if you jack up the rear to check the joints, its better to jack it up by the axle so the Ujoint is at its "normal" angle. jacking it up by the frame puts the Ujpoint at an extreme angle that can 'tighten' it, and a loose one can slip through the examination. DDave
From: XR650L_Dave on 6 Jun 2007 09:18
On Jun 5, 8:18 am, XR650L_Dave <spamTHIS...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > On Jun 5, 8:12 am, XR650L_Dave <spamTHIS...(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > > > > > On Jun 4, 9:25 am, "Dean H." <m...(a)groove.calm> wrote: > > > > >> blowing pinion seals > > > >>u-joint. > > > > So, for this week's Chevy quiz: > > > I've noticed a ticking noise which varies directly with road speed > > > (independant of engine speed). I can only hear it at low speeds if I'm next > > > to a building or some other sound-reflecting object. U-joint seems like the > > > most probable culprit, although it all seemed plenty tight last weekend with > > > a very casual inspection. Maybe my pencil arms don't generate the same kind > > > of forces a 305 does. I'm not sure it's any more of a problem than a little > > > ticking noise, so I'm not panicked. I think it's been there a while and I'm > > > just listening a little harder now; paying a bit more attention. Maybe I'll > > > drop some fresh oil in the diff. > > > > There is that magic time in a vehicle's life where stuff starts coming due. > > > For many, it's a good time to sell and let somebody else have what Chip > > > calls the second half of the vehicle. I think I'll ride it out with this > > > one. > > > > Okay, enough rain now. > > > Ticking would likely not be a Ujoint, but it could be. > > Could be a stone in a tire tread- or a nail. > > Could be a stone (or worse, a lug nut) under a hubcap. Popular prank, > > this one. > > Could be a heat shield getting tapped by a Ujoint. > > > Try to 'see' if it follows a cadence of once-per-wheel-rotation, or if > > its faster than that. > > > Ujoints usually give the driveshaft a good "ring" when you go reverse- > > drive-r-d-r-d when thay are starting to fail "loose", they tend to > > squeak when they fail "tight". > > > A bad ujoint may display a halo of rust around that part of the > > driveshaft, and after a drive, the bad joint may be significantly > > hotter than the other joint(s). > > > If you have a 2-piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing, the bearing > > could be failing, or the rubber holding it in place could be getting > > loose or deteriorating. > > > Unless its obviously loose (and you really have to jack up the rear to > > get the driveshaft to spin to see it) it can be hard to diagnose a bad > > Ujoint without at least disconnecting the shaft from the rear axle and > > wiggling the joints. > > > I think I have a bad Ujoint myself, at the moment. > > > DDave > > Oh, and if you jack up the rear to check the joints, its better to > jack it up by the axle so the Ujoint is at its "normal" angle. jacking > it up by the frame puts the Ujpoint at an extreme angle that can > 'tighten' it, and a loose one can slip through the examination. > > DDave Yep, I need to replace my rear Ujoint. DDave |