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From: Hog on 16 Sep 2006 09:19
Simon Wilson wrote:

> Yes my thoughts too. And I don't fancy bump starting a Pan European
> ever, especially not with an ammeter and wires dangling all over the
> place.
>
> New battery is on, so far it all seems to be behaving, so we'll see.

You seem to have gone through a lot of heartache for a dead battery

--
Hog
'96 Bastard12 '89 R100RS '81 XS650 '78 RD400


From: Simon Wilson on 16 Sep 2006 13:49
Hog wrote:

> Simon Wilson wrote:
>
> > Yes my thoughts too. And I don't fancy bump starting a Pan European
> > ever, especially not with an ammeter and wires dangling all over the
> > place.
> >
> > New battery is on, so far it all seems to be behaving, so we'll see.
>
> You seem to have gone through a lot of heartache for a dead battery

Well yes and no. The old reg/rec was definitely wired up incorrectly,
and as suggested by Mark is quite likely to be a reason towards the
battery's demise. Was not the right r/r for the bike either.

--
/Simon
From: Simon Wilson on 19 Sep 2006 10:31
John wrote:

<snip>
>
> If you have 12v across the rotor field coil then you should have full
> output from the stator. Either the stator is knackered or the
> rectifyer isn't allowing the current to pass to the battery. The
> only way you can tell is to use a multi-meter to check the stator
> ouput while you have a 12 v feed to the rotor. There are three wires
> from the stator. Set m/m to AC ~ volts. You should get about 6-8vAC
> across any two stator wires, and it should increase as you rev engine.
>
> John

Thanks for that advice, why didn't I check this before? aaarrrggh.

With new battery + correctly wired (new) reg/rec, I rode 100 miles down
the M4[1] with the lights on, all seemed ok, until I turned off the
motorway and stopped to read the map. Within a minute or two the ABS
light started flashing again. (Symptom of low batt. volts.) So, my
theories so far have all been wrong.

I had previously checked all of the stator coil resistances and for
shorts to earth.

I measured the ac voltages. Between each pair of wires I get 7.8V ac,
rising to about 14V ac as the revs rise. But, between one pair, there
is just 2V ac, all of the time (doesn't rise). So, is my stator kaput?

180 quid for a rewind, vs. about 220 for a new one, vs. about 400-500
quid for the 40A alternator which is by all accounts much more
reliable. (The original owner had already replaced the alternator once,
though I suspect wiring the new one up fully fielded shortened its
life?)

[1]picked up a Corbin style seat from www.diggerseats.co.uk v.comfy,
especially compared to the rolled up bubble wrap I sat on for a 100
miles to go and get it.
--

/Simon
From: Mark Olson on 19 Sep 2006 12:35
Simon Wilson <siwilson(a)nospam.hotmail.com> wrote:
> John wrote:
>
> <snip>
> >
> > If you have 12v across the rotor field coil then you should have full
> > output from the stator. Either the stator is knackered or the
> > rectifyer isn't allowing the current to pass to the battery. The
> > only way you can tell is to use a multi-meter to check the stator
> > ouput while you have a 12 v feed to the rotor. There are three wires
> > from the stator. Set m/m to AC ~ volts. You should get about 6-8vAC
> > across any two stator wires, and it should increase as you rev engine.
> >
> > John
>
> Thanks for that advice, why didn't I check this before? aaarrrggh.
>
> With new battery + correctly wired (new) reg/rec, I rode 100 miles down
> the M4[1] with the lights on, all seemed ok, until I turned off the
> motorway and stopped to read the map. Within a minute or two the ABS
> light started flashing again. (Symptom of low batt. volts.) So, my
> theories so far have all been wrong.
>
> I had previously checked all of the stator coil resistances and for
> shorts to earth.
>
> I measured the ac voltages. Between each pair of wires I get 7.8V ac,
> rising to about 14V ac as the revs rise. But, between one pair, there
> is just 2V ac, all of the time (doesn't rise). So, is my stator kaput?

If possible, measure the AC voltage open-circuit, not with the reg-rect
attached to the stator (but with 12V across the field winding).
Measuring with the rectifier attached can be inconclusive, a fault in
the stator or in the diode stack can cause similar readings.

Measuring open circuit stator voltages between any two phases you should
see... oh, perhaps 70VAC? Whatever it is, it should be the same for
all three combinations of leads. If one pair is markedly different from
the other two, your stator's toast.

> 180 quid for a rewind, vs. about 220 for a new one, vs. about 400-500
> quid for the 40A alternator which is by all accounts much more
> reliable. (The original owner had already replaced the alternator once,
> though I suspect wiring the new one up fully fielded shortened its
> life?)

What's brown and sounds like a bell.

I would guess that you haven't found the proper alternator rewinders,
180 quid seems way over the top for rewinding what is essentially a
normal (albeit small) auto alternator. I'd seek out an auto electrics
shop rather than a bike oriented shop...

--
'01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13 '81 CM400T
OMF #7
From: steve auvache on 19 Sep 2006 12:43
Mark Olson wrote

> toast.

Oh what a good idea, with beans and a burger and a couple of slices of
Best British Bacon on the top and a nice mug of tea to wash it all down
with.

I may be gone for as long as it takes to cook and consume that lot.



--
steve auvache
i rate dates
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