Round 3, FOAK: 1982 Kawie KZ550 C3 LTD Restoration Options
in [UK Motorcycles]
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From: Schiffner on 9 Oct 2009 00:05 On Oct 8, 1:35 pm, "Lozzo" <lo...(a)lozzo.org.uk> wrote: > 1949 Whizzer wrote: > > On Oct 8, 9:17 am, "TOG(a)Toil" <totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > > > > I think if Krusty and other Yanks want to see all-day high-speed > > > riding, they really need to pop over to Europe. > > > If I ever go back to Europe, it won't be to ride motorcycles, it will > > be to tour historic buildings and museums. > > Europe has far too many bendy roads for most Yanks' little minds to > cope with. Thank the Farce I'm not one of those losers.
From: M.Badger on 9 Oct 2009 02:21 1949 Whizzer wrote: > On Oct 7, 10:12 am, Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >> Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- >> Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? > > I don't use either one on screw threads. > > I spray WD40 on the threads so the screw will turn in smoothly. > > I never use a torque wrench on threads that I've lubricated in this > manner, I rely upon my calibrated wrist when tightening the bolt. > > Several months (or years) later, when I loosen the WD40 lubricated > bolt, it takes the same amount of force as if I was loosening a > factory intalled bolt. > > The bolt (or screw) comes loose with a *snapping* sound. Snapping sounds on undoing a fastener not Loctited are generally not good. It points to contact face issues such as corrosion, galling, scarring or localised weld points fracturing as the contact faces rotate as the clamping force is removed. This interference twixt fastener and fastened, coupled with the distortion of the threads pressure face and the metals propensity to want to return to its original shape gives in part the clamping pressure. This is good for internal assemblys, not so good for external case covers where all we desire is the fasteners to provide sufficient, uniform clamping pressure to allow a gasket or O ring to do its job until we want to remove the cover. An assembly paste, be it a grease type or Loctite type coats the thread contact faces to minimise metal-metal contact and fill the voids to minimise or indeed eliminate the possibility of outside agents entering the voids[1], causing corrosion and swelling, leading to chewed heads when it comes to undoing them. That 'snapping' sound is worthy of research. I haven't worded it particularly well, but I hope I have managed to pique some curiosity in to the method of operation of threaded fasteners. The links provided by Mark, after Mark Olsens post provide some good reading for the curious geek. [1]Images of 'Mission Impossible' type micro-agents seeking out a means of ingress to fastener voids and filling them with magic corrosion stuff.
From: The Older Gentleman on 9 Oct 2009 02:27 1949 Whizzer <macmiled(a)gmail.com> wrote: > On Oct 8, 1:36 pm, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Evil Clown) > wrote: > > > I'm waiting for an apology but I'm not holding my breath. > > Maybe you should practice holding your breath. It might be an > advantage, considering your personal proclivities. I'm a free diver? -- BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple Suzuki TS250ER Yamaha XS250 Damn, back to seven bikes! Try Googling before asking a damn silly question. chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
From: The Older Gentleman on 9 Oct 2009 02:27 Schiffner <stevenkeith2(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > On Oct 7, 11:35 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older > Gentleman) wrote: > > Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > > > Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- > > > Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? > > > > Anti-seize. Copper grease is fine. > > I 've always favored graphite or molydbneum<sic> based anti-sieze > compounds. But that's just me... I've got a tin of moly grease as well. I use it on... can't remember what, actually, but some things. The copper grese is the preferred one, though. I use that on brake components (like the K11's caliper pins, when I replaced the pads last weekend). Not sure if moly grease is good for high temperatures. Any ideas? -- BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple Suzuki TS250ER Damn, back to six bikes! Try Googling before asking a damn silly question. chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
From: Andy Bonwick on 9 Oct 2009 05:15
On Fri, 9 Oct 2009 07:27:17 +0100, totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) wrote: >Schiffner <stevenkeith2(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > >> On Oct 7, 11:35 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older >> Gentleman) wrote: >> > Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: >> > > Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- >> > > Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? >> > >> > Anti-seize. Copper grease is fine. >> >> I 've always favored graphite or molydbneum<sic> based anti-sieze >> compounds. But that's just me... > >I've got a tin of moly grease as well. I use it on... can't remember >what, actually, but some things. > BMW splined shafts. >The copper grese is the preferred one, though. I use that on brake >components (like the K11's caliper pins, when I replaced the pads last >weekend). Not sure if moly grease is good for high temperatures. Any >ideas? We use moly on steam turbine cylinder studs and the inner ones are running hotter than any motorbike parts so I'd say that it's ok. |