Round 3, FOAK: 1982 Kawie KZ550 C3 LTD Restoration Options
in [UK Motorcycles]
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From: Biker Dude on 7 Oct 2009 13:12 Thanks to all who have helped me so far! I followed your advice, changed BOTH throttle cables, and the force needed to control the throttle is much less, the bike is now rideable for at least short distances. Will take it on a long trip soon and then report back...... (The old cables sure looked like a mess when I removed them and inspected them up close.) What about all the stripped screwdriver slots in all the fasteners that hold it together? I have one machine screw that is busted off but it's above the casting so I can heat it after I remove the engine to keep from starting the whole bike on fire. Z-1 Enterprises sells replacement machine screws for bikes that all have Allen heads. My question to the group is this: Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? Biker Dude in the Land of ZATAMM
From: The Older Gentleman on 7 Oct 2009 13:35 Biker Dude <jacobsenpaule(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- > Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? Anti-seize. Copper grease is fine. -- BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools
From: Mark Olson on 7 Oct 2009 13:38 Biker Dude wrote: > What about all the stripped screwdriver slots in all the fasteners > that hold it together? I have one machine screw that is busted off > but it's above the casting so I can heat it after I remove the engine > to keep from starting the whole bike on fire. Z-1 Enterprises sells > replacement machine screws for bikes that all have Allen heads. > > My question to the group is this: > > Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- > Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? I wouldn't bother replacing Phillips head screws with socket head capscrews. Just use an impact driver to remove them, it reliably breaks loose corroded screws. Where appropriate, I use anti-seize. I don't use Loctite for anti-corrosion reasons but I do use it where indicated in the manual or where I think it is necessary. http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/data/articlestandard/dirtbike/232006/332676/tools17.jpg http://www.bikernet.com/garage/loctitetech.asp
From: 1949 Whizzer on 7 Oct 2009 15:35 On Oct 7, 10:12 am, Biker Dude <jacobsenpa...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > Should I install Allen head screws with anti-sieze compound or Loc- > Tite on the threads to reduce the dissimilar metal corrosion? I don't use either one on screw threads. I spray WD40 on the threads so the screw will turn in smoothly. I never use a torque wrench on threads that I've lubricated in this manner, I rely upon my calibrated wrist when tightening the bolt. Several months (or years) later, when I loosen the WD40 lubricated bolt, it takes the same amount of force as if I was loosening a factory intalled bolt. The bolt (or screw) comes loose with a *snapping* sound.
From: 1949 Whizzer on 7 Oct 2009 15:36
On Oct 7, 10:35 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > Anti-seize. Copper grease is fine. They salt the roads in England, don't they? |