From: Greg.Procter on
On Sat, 24 Oct 2009 07:24:41 +1300, little man upon the stair
<macmiled(a)gmail.com> wrote:

> On Oct 23, 7:37�am, paul c <toledobythe...(a)oohay.ac> wrote:
>
>> �I was wondering if you'd have to change
>> rake and therefore trail, maybe better high-speed stability is what you
>> have in mind but personally I wouldn't want to change the low-speed
>> behaviour.
>
> It's not a good idea to try going faster than about 50 mph on a
> scooter�with moderate sized wheels, because the diameter of the tire
> not only affects handling, it affects ride quality and traction as the
> tire rolls over tiny bumps in the pavement.
>
> Some of the larger scooters have gone to 18-inch wheels to manage the
> bump problem.
>

My NZeta in the 1960s was quite stable at up to around 70mph.
(down-hill, tailwind and prayer ;-)
That's really (one of) the reasons I'm interested in rebuilding one.
PS handbook claimed 59mph top speed (95km/hr) and I regularly achieved
65mph on the speedo. (eventually)
The upside down bathtub structure is/was extremely rigid and the
long-travel suspension handled local conditions very well.
From: Greg.Procter on
On Sat, 24 Oct 2009 08:18:27 +1300, little man upon the stair
<macmiled(a)gmail.com> wrote:

> On Oct 23, 11:31�am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Evil Clown)
> wrote:
>
>> You know nothing.
>
> You prove that you know less every time you challenge an obvious fact.
>

I've ridden may bikes with much worse handling than the NZeta scooter,
eg Harleys, worn Nortons, Triumphs ...

Greg.P.
From: Greg.Procter on
On Sat, 24 Oct 2009 20:34:58 +1300, The Older Gentleman
<totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> little man upon the stair <macmiled(a)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Oct 23, 3:44?pm, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Importunate
>> Cottager) pled:
>>
>> > Nope, sweetie-pie. Wrong again.
>>
>> It doesn't matter how much you beg, I'm not going to explain the
>> effects of
>> vibrational frequency on traction as regards rubber tires beyond
>> saying that, when the vibration stops, you're about to crash.
>
> Right. So all small-wheeled bikes are dangerous.
>
> Do you have a minimum size that you consider to be safe? If so, what? We
> need to know.
>


27" rims are generally safe!
;-)


- Bigger wheels don't fall into big pot-holes as badly as small ones.
- Smaller wheels give better acceleration. ;-)
- Smaller wheels have less gyroscopic effect. (rider/bike stability)
most other effects relate more to suspension than size.

Greg.P.
From: little man upon the stair on
On Oct 24, 6:31 pm, "Greg.Procter" <proc...(a)ihug.co.nz> wrote:

> 27" rims are generally safe!

Modern sportbikes have tires with an outer diameter of 22 to 25
inches, anything smaller will lose traction on all but billiard-smooth
pavement and anything larger than 25 inch diameter will out-track
badly when the rider tries to turn into a corner.

> - Bigger wheels don't fall into big pot-holes as badly as small ones.
> - Smaller wheels give better acceleration. ;-)
> - Smaller wheels have less gyroscopic effect. (rider/bike stability)
> most other effects relate more to suspension than size.

I got heavy into this business several years ago and was the OP that
started this thread.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.motorcycle.sportbike/browse_thread/thread/47927af34e5a9560/6476145991efd6f5?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=%22good+vibrations%22#6476145991efd6f5

I got into the vibration problem in the first message and went on to a
study of spring preload and how to adjust sag to avoid hobby-horsing
over bumps at the desired cruising speed.


From: Greg.Procter on
On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 15:00:40 +1300, little man upon the stair
<macmiled(a)gmail.com> wrote:

> On Oct 24, 6:31�pm, "Greg.Procter" <proc...(a)ihug.co.nz> wrote:
>
>> 27" rims are generally safe!
>
> Modern sportbikes have tires with an outer diameter of 22 to 25
> inches, anything smaller will lose traction on all but billiard-smooth
> pavement

That would be a matter of suspension rather than tyre diameter. (down to a
point where the radius is greater than about 1/3rd the depth of ruts,
holes and corrugations)
A lighter wheel can obviously follow irregularities quicker than a heavier
wheel. (sprung vs unsprung weight)


and anything larger than 25 inch diameter will out-track
badly when the rider tries to turn into a corner.

Is there something magic about 25"?

>
>> - Bigger wheels don't fall into big pot-holes as badly as small ones.
>> - Smaller wheels give better acceleration. ;-)
>> - Smaller wheels have less gyroscopic effect. (rider/bike stability)
>> most other effects relate more to suspension than size.
>
> I got heavy into this business several years ago and was the OP that
> started this thread.
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/alt.motorcycle.sportbike/browse_thread/thread/47927af34e5a9560/6476145991efd6f5?hl=en&lnk=gst&q=%22good+vibrations%22#6476145991efd6f5
>
> I got into the vibration problem in the first message and went on to a
> study of spring preload and how to adjust sag to avoid hobby-horsing
> over bumps at the desired cruising speed.

"Hobby-horsing"? (rebound(?))
(Sorry, possible language problem there)

Have you considered damping rates???

Regards,
Greg.P.