From: Robert Bolton on
On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 22:07:43 -0400, Futility Man <null(a)futile.org>
wrote:

>On Mon, 19 Jul 2010 16:28:48 +0100, totallydeadmailbox(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older
>Gentleman) wrote:
>
>>Ever actually tried it, on a bike speedo? Not quite as simple as I
>>thought, when I tried it.
>>
>>Using a drill was an incredibly slow process and I gave up.
>
>A guy told me he once tried it by chucking the end of the cable in a lathe and
>running the lathe backward. The miles were clicking off at a nice rate and they
>decided to run it at full speed. They estimated they were going in reverse at
>about 450mph. It melted the internal gears.
>
When I was a kid, I connected an Erector Set electric motor (it drove
the Ferris wheel) to an old auto speedometer. It ran backwards at the
rate of 120 mph...till it quit working.

Early/Mid 60s sometime.

Robert
From: BrianNZ on
The Older Gentleman wrote:
> BrianNZ <brian(a)itnz.co.nz> wrote:
>
>> I'm going to get it wound back to zero,
>
> Ever actually tried it, on a bike speedo? Not quite as simple as I
> thought, when I tried it.
>
> Using a drill was an incredibly slow process and I gave up.
>
>


I'll leave that to an expert. Rather than try to use the actual speedo
drive to alter the numbers, I was expecting it to be pulled apart to
have it done?
From: The Older Gentleman on
BrianNZ <brian(a)itnz.co.nz> wrote:

> The Older Gentleman wrote:
> > BrianNZ <brian(a)itnz.co.nz> wrote:
> >
> >> I'm going to get it wound back to zero,
> >
> > Ever actually tried it, on a bike speedo? Not quite as simple as I
> > thought, when I tried it.
> >
> > Using a drill was an incredibly slow process and I gave up.
> >
> >
>
>
> I'll leave that to an expert. Rather than try to use the actual speedo
> drive to alter the numbers, I was expecting it to be pulled apart to
> have it done?

Damned difficult to do on some old-style Jap instruments, with the
chrome ring rolled around the bottom of the clock. Next to impossible to
remove and replace the ring without leaving tell-tales.

Quite easy on units that house the speedo as a removeable unit inside a
plastic dashboard with its own glass coveres for the clocks.

As beav says, I think the modern digital jobs are (ironically) the
easiest of all, asusming you've got the right software and a laptop.

What *really* made me grin was what Suzuki adopted a few years ago as
diagnostic kit for their new generation of computerised FI motorcycles.

The software was loaded onto Nintendo cartridges, believe it or not, on
the basis that they were cheap, easily avaialable, and there were
Nintendo consoles *everywhere* to read them on.



--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F
Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom
Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a
can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools
From: Rob Kleinschmidt on
On Jul 21, 3:53 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:

> > I'll leave that to an expert. Rather than try to use the actual speedo
> > drive to alter the numbers, I was expecting it to be pulled apart to
> > have it done?
>
> Damned difficult to do on some old-style Jap instruments, with the
> chrome ring rolled around the bottom of the clock. Next to impossible to
> remove and replace the ring without leaving tell-tales.

It's not all that hard to remove and replace the
ring, though the one time I did it, there were
certainly tell-tales where it was re-crimped.
Wouldn't be all that obvious to a buyer though.

With the right tools and maybe a new ring, should
be a piece of cake. I'm speculating it might also be
possible to do some kind of small incision(s) just to
roll the leftmost odometer wheel.
From: Rob Kleinschmidt on
On Jul 21, 7:39 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older
Gentleman) wrote:
> Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216...(a)aol.com> wrote:
>
> > It's not all that hard to remove and replace the
> > ring, though the one time I did it, there were
> > certainly tell-tales where it was re-crimped.
>
> That's the point.
>
> > Wouldn't be all that obvious to a buyer though.
>
> Heh. Wanna bet?

The crimp is generally concealed by whatever
plastic the instrument is housed in. On a totally
exposed speedo it'd be visible. On mine, the crimp
isn't visible until you open the headlight assembly
and pull the speedo.

I've also heard that it helps to put a large hose
clamp around the ring when opening or closing
the crimp. Haven't actually tried this one.

> >I'm speculating it might also be
> > possible to do some kind of small incision(s) just to
> > roll the leftmost odometer wheel.
>
> Heh. On my BMW, that would change the recorded mileage from 40,000 miles
> to 140,000 miles 0r 940,000 miles, dependingwhich way you flicked the
> digit. ;-)

On a six digit odometer, you'd rotate just the highest
order wheel. On a seven digit, you'd have to rotate
two wheels. Not sure if this is doable or not, but
you obviously don't care much about wheels one through
five.
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