Garage Night: New video - all about swingarm bearings
in [Motorcycles]
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From: Andy Bonwick on 29 Mar 2010 16:55 On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:44:10 -0700 (PDT), antonye <antonye(a)ukrm.net> wrote: snip> >I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they >were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to >push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them >to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does >help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10 >minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine. > I wouldn't use heat or freezing on a needle roller bearing because there isn't enough surface area to make it worth the effort. I agree about having a magnetic tray to catch rollers that want to take a holiday because the little bastards always make a break for freedom and you only find that one when you're about to go for a test ride.
From: Pete Fisher on 29 Mar 2010 17:04 In communiqu� <1l42r5dll0063bteerobp3282270qckjfu(a)4ax.com>, Andy Bonwick <nospam(a)bonwick.me.uk> cast forth these pearls of wisdom >On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 13:44:10 -0700 (PDT), antonye <antonye(a)ukrm.net> >wrote: > >snip> > >>I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they >>were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to >>push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them >>to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does >>help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10 >>minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine. >> >I wouldn't use heat or freezing on a needle roller bearing because >there isn't enough surface area to make it worth the effort. > I decided that the effort was worth it, if only psychologically, and time wasn't of the essence. -- +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Pete Fisher at Home: Peter(a)ps-fisher.demon.co.uk | | Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" | | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: antonye on 29 Mar 2010 17:10 Andy Bonwick wrote: > > I wouldn't use heat or freezing on a needle roller bearing because > there isn't enough surface area to make it worth the effort. I must admit that I've not had the experience of needle bearings, but the sealed bearings that I've used on swingarms, wheels, ride height adjusters and the like have all benefited from being left in the freezer for a few days. Of course, the biggest tip about bearings is to take the old one to a decent bearing sales/distributor and to get them to supply a new one based on the bearing number and not your bike make/model, as it will 99.99% of the time be a fuckload cheaper, and usually of much better quality too. -- Antony
From: Waz on 29 Mar 2010 17:12 On Mar 29, 9:44 pm, antonye <anto...(a)ukrm.net> wrote: > I'm surprised about the comment on anodising - you've obviously > not used the right anodisers! Anything can be re-anodised ... Hi Antony, In my view, if it's going to be worth re-anodising something you need to be able to bring the metal back up to the finish of the original pre-anodising surface. I think if the anodising has 'gone off' like mine had it's likely you won't be able to restore the metal well enough to make it worth re- anodising, and if you tried you'd be disappointed with the results. In my case it definitely wouldn't have been possible to polish the swingarm back to something that looked good enough to anodise - hence powdercoating. Let's see how it stands up to rocks, sticks and ruts! The clincher, though, was that the arms of the swingarm are box section extruded or whatever, while what i'd call the 'girdle' at the front is cast. So you'd get differing results when anodised. I believe cast alloy doesn't anodise that great?? Best, Waz
From: Jordan on 29 Mar 2010 17:33
Waz wrote: > > http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/ > > Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc. > Heating the Al would be more effective, as it expands more with heat than steel shrinks with cold. Probably OK to do it cold with highly polished surfaces of the bearings, but generally you have to be careful to prevent galling of Al. If things go bad, Loctite saves the day. To remove the first bearing, you could use a thick steel disc, say a washer, that has an OD that just fits inside the housing. Hacksaw/file two parallel flats, just narrow enough to fit through the bearing. Then you have it between the 2 bearings. Laid flat against the bearing gives a nice safe purchase to whack or press on. Jordan |