Garage Night: New video - all about swingarm bearings
in [Motorcycles]
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From: Snag on 30 Mar 2010 07:00 Waz wrote: > > What I really want to know is how to recoat the bespoke steel bolts, > axles, spacers etc on my bike in that original yellow finish, which I > think is some kind of zinc plating. > > Waz More likely that coating was cadmium . -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF
From: The Raven on 30 Mar 2010 07:03 "Waz" <murray.wn(a)googlemail.com> wrote in message news:6425506d-0c19-47f3-9dd2-82cf2e5ffcd8(a)l36g2000yqb.googlegroups.com... > We've done another episode of our web video show about working on > bikes. > > This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings. > > http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/ > > Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc. I don't need to watch the video to agree with the merits of heating/freezing to help remove/install bearings. Do it regularly, the biggest consideration is the types of metals and temperatures involved.
From: S'mee on 30 Mar 2010 12:18 On Mar 29, 10:28 am, Waz <murray...(a)googlemail.com> wrote: > On Mar 29, 2:01 pm, "S'mee" <stevenkei...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > > > You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser > > drinker serious. ;^) > > I buy whatever's cheapest (within limits). Can you take a budget- > conscious beer drinker seriously? sheesh, I said nothing about buying it... I cook with it not drink it! (makes great beer bread) Remember SMILE! 8^) Makes everyone wonder where you hid the limburger on their bike.
From: Jordan on 30 Mar 2010 16:55 Snag wrote: > Waz wrote: > >> What I really want to know is how to recoat the bespoke steel bolts, >> axles, spacers etc on my bike in that original yellow finish, which I >> think is some kind of zinc plating. >> >> Waz > > More likely that coating was cadmium . > Zinc chromate
From: antonye on 30 Mar 2010 17:18
Waz wrote: > > I saw that One Shot cleaner stuff and was sizing it up for anodising! > Is it pure sulphuric? I thought there might have been other shite in > it that would cause problems. It's 91% so a lot better than most battery acids you can buy, and a damn sight cheaper too. The other 9% is probably a stabiliser and a bit of colour too, as it comes out purple. Once bubbling it goes clear. You want to get it down to around 15-18% sulphuric so for the whole 1L bottle you're talking between 4-4.5L of distilled water. You can use a battery acid tester (dropper) to check the acidity, but measuring works well enough for me. Here's a pic of my little setup, a 10L box (I think) with a nice thick piece of alu plate running across the bottom, hooked up to an old battery! http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/8634/img0431l.jpg bubbling away: http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1773/img0432wk.jpg bubbles died down - almost done http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8103/img0433ew.jpg > Did you use desmut with nitric in your home anodising set-up, > or not worry about it? I've not needed to yet, and didn't really bother because it's not that easy to get hold of nitric. Maybe I should do a bit more research and find a cheap supplier. I just use a lot of distilled water to keep things clean both before and after anodising. > What I really want to know is how to recoat the bespoke steel > bolts, axles, spacers etc on my bike in that original yellow > finish, which I think is some kind of zinc plating. The original (yellow/gold) finish to Ducati nuts and bolts is cadmium plating which has then been passivated, known as "cad & pas". It's quite tricky to get done now (here in the UK) as, much like real chrome, you need to be licenced to do it, but have a Google and you may be able to find somewhere close to you to get it done. Personally, I just replace with stainless and be done with it! -- Antony |