From: Waz on
We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
bikes.

This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.

http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/

Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc.

All the best,
Waz from Garage Night TV
From: S'mee on
On Mar 29, 6:22 am, Waz <murray...(a)googlemail.com> wrote:
> We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
> bikes.
>
> This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.
>
> http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/


You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser
drinker serious. ;^)

From: Pete Fisher on
In communiqu�
<6425506d-0c19-47f3-9dd2-82cf2e5ffcd8(a)l36g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>, Waz
<murray.wn(a)googlemail.com> cast forth these pearls of wisdom
>We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
>bikes.
>
>This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.
>
>http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/
>
>Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc.
>
>All the best,
>Waz from Garage Night TV

Too late for me !

I managed the relay and control arms on the SO YZ250, though I had to
use a hacksaw, sharp implements and a lump hammer to get the totally
rusted remains of full complement needle roller bearing outer shells
out. Not having a FOAD vice I used a length of threaded rod, nuts,
sockets and natty bearing driver discs to get the new ones in. As these
small castings would go in the oven I used heat and had the new bearings
in the freezer. I reckon it helped. In fact, I re-heated them when it
became obstinate to good effect - differential expansion works.

I had to take the swinging arm to an expert with a press though as the
brute force approach wasn't shifting the old bearings.

Good video though.



--
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: Peter(a)ps-fisher.demon.co.uk |
| Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: Waz on
On Mar 29, 2:01 pm, "S'mee" <stevenkei...(a)hotmail.com> wrote:
> You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser
> drinker serious. ;^)

I buy whatever's cheapest (within limits). Can you take a budget-
conscious beer drinker seriously?
From: antonye on
Waz wrote:
> We've done another episode of our web video show about working on
> bikes.
>
> This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings.
>
> http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/
>
> Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc.

Another good vid.

A good tip for needle bearings is to have a magnetic tray
underneath when you extract whatever it is - any needles
falling out stick in the tray rather than making a break
for freedom under the workbench.

I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they
were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to
push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them
to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does
help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10
minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine.

I'm surprised about the comment on anodising - you've obviously
not used the right anodisers! Anything can be re-anodised,
but you have to make considerations for anything non-alu -
steel buses or insert will get eaten away during acid
(type 2/3) anodising. What is better? It's personal choice
and availability of decent tradesmen to do a good job. Cost
would be roughly the same as a decent powdercoat. I think I'd
have gone with powder coat on the swingarm too.

--
Antony
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