From: Waz on 29 Mar 2010 08:22 We've done another episode of our web video show about working on bikes. This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings. http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/ Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc. All the best, Waz from Garage Night TV
From: S'mee on 29 Mar 2010 09:01 On Mar 29, 6:22 am, Waz <murray...(a)googlemail.com> wrote: > We've done another episode of our web video show about working on > bikes. > > This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings. > > http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/ You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser drinker serious. ;^)
From: Pete Fisher on 29 Mar 2010 09:05 In communiqu� <6425506d-0c19-47f3-9dd2-82cf2e5ffcd8(a)l36g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>, Waz <murray.wn(a)googlemail.com> cast forth these pearls of wisdom >We've done another episode of our web video show about working on >bikes. > >This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings. > >http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/ > >Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc. > >All the best, >Waz from Garage Night TV Too late for me ! I managed the relay and control arms on the SO YZ250, though I had to use a hacksaw, sharp implements and a lump hammer to get the totally rusted remains of full complement needle roller bearing outer shells out. Not having a FOAD vice I used a length of threaded rod, nuts, sockets and natty bearing driver discs to get the new ones in. As these small castings would go in the oven I used heat and had the new bearings in the freezer. I reckon it helped. In fact, I re-heated them when it became obstinate to good effect - differential expansion works. I had to take the swinging arm to an expert with a press though as the brute force approach wasn't shifting the old bearings. Good video though. -- +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Pete Fisher at Home: Peter(a)ps-fisher.demon.co.uk | | Voxan Roadster Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" | | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
From: Waz on 29 Mar 2010 12:28 On Mar 29, 2:01 pm, "S'mee" <stevenkei...(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > You had me thinking you were serious...I can never take a budweiser > drinker serious. ;^) I buy whatever's cheapest (within limits). Can you take a budget- conscious beer drinker seriously?
From: antonye on 29 Mar 2010 16:44
Waz wrote: > We've done another episode of our web video show about working on > bikes. > > This time it's removing, replacing and maintaining swingarm bearings. > > http://www.garagenight.tv/replacing-swingarm-bearings/ > > Looking forward to discussion - the merits of freezing/heating etc. Another good vid. A good tip for needle bearings is to have a magnetic tray underneath when you extract whatever it is - any needles falling out stick in the tray rather than making a break for freedom under the workbench. I've successfully used the bearing-in-freezer routine (they were left in for a couple of days) to make it easier to push them in on an interference fit. You'll never get them to drop in (certainly nothing motorbike size!) but it does help to get them in. They'll retain the cold for a good 5-10 minutes, so taking them out one at a time will be fine. I'm surprised about the comment on anodising - you've obviously not used the right anodisers! Anything can be re-anodised, but you have to make considerations for anything non-alu - steel buses or insert will get eaten away during acid (type 2/3) anodising. What is better? It's personal choice and availability of decent tradesmen to do a good job. Cost would be roughly the same as a decent powdercoat. I think I'd have gone with powder coat on the swingarm too. -- Antony |