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From: ginge on 25 Sep 2009 11:56 On 25 Sep 2009 15:07:04 GMT, "Krusty" <dontwantany(a)nowhere.invalid> wrote: >ginge wrote: > >> On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 15:28:17 +0100, Champ <news(a)champ.org.uk> wrote: >> >> > Now, remember, the point of this is not to defeat the immobiliser >> > system, which is in the ECU anyway. The point is to plug in an ECU >> > that doesn't even care about an immobiliser, and work out how the >> > loom needs to be modified to cope with the fact that it's not >> > getting a 'go' value from the ECU. >> >> Having seen the diagram here's my approach to fixing it had I >> sufficient time to waste. >> >> Print the whole uk version and with several coloured felt tips trace >> each of the wires from the ECU amplifier to wherever they each end up. >> >> Then rewire those end points back to match wherever they go on the US >> diagram. > >I've traced all the circuits to do with starting/ignition in both >diagrams, & they're the same apart from the 3 extra wires from ECU to >Immobiliser Thingy in the UK one. I've got a crazy idea. What happens if you just disconnect the Imobiliser amplifier from the loom, and short the ignition wires.. the US ECU shouldn't need that bit in situ at all.
From: ogden on 25 Sep 2009 14:30 Champ wrote: > On 25 Sep 2009 11:21:46 GMT, "Krusty" <dontwantany(a)nowhere.invalid> > wrote: > > >> Actually, I've got PDFs of both. What I don't have is a tool that > >> will allow me to cut the two pages of the wiring diagram out of the > >> 600 pages of the manual. > > >If you're using Adobe Reader, you can click on the wiring diags & they > >turn blue. > > When I do that, only half the page turns blue - I seem to be able to > cut the top half, or the bottom half, but not the whole page. Print the PDF to something the MS XPS virtual printer (or something like PDF995). That'll give you a file containing just the relevant pages. -- ogden
From: ogden on 25 Sep 2009 18:12 Champ wrote: > On 25 Sep 2009 09:34:35 GMT, crn(a)NOSPAM.netunix.com wrote: > > >Champ <news(a)champ.org.uk> wrote: > >> My objective is specifically not to have a 'race bike on the road', > >> with cobbled together road ancillaries. I want a road bike with race > >> spec components, but I still want all the features of the road bike, > >> and I want it to be completely usable as a road bike. > > >An interesting project but just how "completely usable" is it going > >to be. Power delivery is going to be interesting and docile is not > >going to be on the menu. Could prove to be a bit of a handfull in > >traffic but ICBW. > > my bike *already* makes some 160bhp. In an entirely > predicatable and controllable way. The race engine has the same > linear response, and a very full mid-range. The difference is that it > also has some 30bhp more at the top end. Well quite. A litre sportsbike (albeit at the lardy sports tourer end of the range) makes a perfectly viable cross-town commuter. An extra thirty horses at the top end can't do any harm. -- ogden
From: ogden on 25 Sep 2009 18:13 Krusty wrote: > crn(a)NOSPAM.netunix.com wrote: > > > What is the objective ?. A road legal race bike or a complete road > > Kwak with a race engine ?. > > Knowing Champ's usage, I'd say almost certainly the latter. Riding it like he stole it? It's about evens, I'd have thought. -- ogden
From: Champ on 26 Sep 2009 03:46
On Sat, 26 Sep 2009 08:09:59 +0100, Pete Fisher <Peter(a)ps-fisher.demon.co.uk> wrote: >So here is the nub of the problem: > >http://www.flarefox.com/Stuff/zx10recus.pdf > >The crux would seem to be the yellow and orange wires that link the UK >ecu and the immobiliser amplifier. > >Except that on the US version there is a grey wire not present on the UK >version and on the UK there is a black wire not present on the US >version to complicate matters. But they are probably not important right >now. I agree. >As Champ has a key, the immobiliser amplifier must be getting the >correct input from the antenna. No, the antenna just detects the chip in the key. The amplifier, er, amplifies it, and sends some signals the to ECU. The actual association is between key and ECU. >It can't, however, pass on a 'go signal' >to the ECU because the US ecu isn't even expecting one, or receive a >'go signal' because the US ecu can't provide one. Which is it ? Or >perhaps the UK ecu just establishes a connection between yellow and >orange. You're sort of missing the point. >I suspect many a scrote may have tried joining the orange and yellow >wires with a scotchlock in an attempt to hot wire a stolen bike. It just wouldn't work - a UK ECU won't work at all without the right key. The only additional thing we've got here is that the UK ECU also puts out some signal to work some ancillary stuff. And, as you say, the US one doesn't. So that's what we've got to figure. -- Champ ZX10R (road), ZX10R (race; breaking), GPz750 turbo (classic) Hayabusa (touring) To email me, neal at my domain should work. |