Help needed - CBR 600 wont start
in [Tech]
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From: pokee joe on 16 May 2010 18:29 "." <an.gleann.mor(a)gmail.com> wrote in news:c167f35b-47e3-49da-aa4d-55dc3566ef14(a)11g2000prw.googlegroups.com: > The more practical-minded member of the ad hoc design commitee > undertood that flux density was fixed if we used the permanent > magnet rotor that we had, and that frequency was determined by > engine RPM and would always vary. > > So he decided to wind as many turns of copper wire onto the cores > as possible, heh heh... Maximizing inductive impedance, so output would decrease as rpm increased > stating that he would remove turns of wire as > necessary to reduce voltage... > Was this back before the days of solid state voltage regulators? Ummm... nevermind, the GT750 did not predate solid state voltage regulators. The state of the art in the year 1912, included cuprous oxide on copper semiconductors that Con Edison was using. Even Ford Motor Company was using solid state by the time the GT750 came along :-) > The Multifire unit needed 30 amps at low RPM and the current draw > decreased as engine RPM increased... That explains it. I've worked with engineers that put in lots of extra effort, to turn separate problems into interesting interacting solutions... I usually had to wait for them to wander off and get interested in something else, so I could finally fix the problems they caused. regards, Joe
From: pokee joe on 16 May 2010 19:25 While we're walking down memory lane... I recall one who's problems I couldn't help at all. On board a Naval Oceanography Survey vessel, off the California coast in the late 1980's: The NAVO scientists included a group who had brought aboard a new 3 million dollar experimental underwater sled, with a variety of cameras and sonar systems that were supposed to all be able to work at the same time. One day as I was in the survey center doing my daily maintenance, the lead engineer for the new sled was working the tow cable controls hmself. The experimental sled was in the water for the first time and he had almost 12,000 fathoms of cable out. He was explaining to someone else that he calculated the amount of cable necessary and let it out that far, then was just waiting for us to come back over the sea ridge that was only 5,000 fathoms down. He expected to see it coming up and would have plenty of time to adjust the sled height so he could fly it at 2 fathoms above the sea floor. Out on deck, just forward of the cable derrick was an automatic tensioner that consisted of 4 pulleys on two axles, held apart by a nitrogen charged ram at a regulated pressure. Normally, this merely compensated for heavy seas, allowing the sled to remain at a steady depth as the ship rose and fell on the seas. This day, the camera aimed at the tensioner showed it was very active, almost slamming against the limits of the ram, even though we were in calm seas. They had sent someone and verified that the nitrogen pressure was correct, so they quit paying attention to it. As I listened to him explaining exactly how he had calculated how much the drag would cause the cable to bow out behind the ship, which was moving at 5 knots, I glanced over at the chart and saw we were in the edge of the Japan current and traveling with the current. When I pointed out that that meant he should have been calculating for 1.5 knots of water flow instead of 3 knots, everybody turned and looked at the tensioner camera again. I quietly went back to work. Somewhere, I still have some of the pictures I took of that mangled, open frame sled, when they got it back aboard after dragging it across a couple miles of rocky bottom. We pulled in early so the experimental group could offload the remains and ship it home, then went back to flying the $60,000 sleds. regards, Joe
From: Rob Kleinschmidt on 16 May 2010 23:44 On May 16, 11:17 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216...(a)aol.com> wrote: > > Only thing I might worry about would be a system > > with a totally dead battery. > > *Shrug* > > I left the parking lights on overnight on my Triumph Street Triple > a few weeks ago, and jumped it off the Subaru. No worries. I'm not comfortable with a totally flat battery, partly because I'd worry about a spark damaging an electronic component, partly because I wouldn't want to connect to a dead short. I could well be wrong, but have never been anxious to test this.
From: Mark Olson on 17 May 2010 04:45 Rob Kleinschmidt wrote: > On May 16, 11:17 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older > Gentleman) wrote: >> Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216...(a)aol.com> wrote: >>> Only thing I might worry about would be a system >>> with a totally dead battery. >> *Shrug* >> >> I left the parking lights on overnight on my Triumph Street Triple >> a few weeks ago, and jumped it off the Subaru. No worries. > > I'm not comfortable with a totally flat battery, > partly because I'd worry about a spark damaging > an electronic component, partly because I wouldn't > want to connect to a dead short. I could well be > wrong, but have never been anxious to test this. I had a direct non-switched connection (although it was fused) to the battery on my SV, to which I connected heated grips. On at least four occasions, I forgot to turn the grips off and the battery went completely and utterly dead. In each case I jumped it from a car, and that seven year old battery was still working perfectly when I sold the bike. On at least one occasion I was in a big hurry to get going, the battery was so low that jumping it from the car wouldn't start the bike so I left the car engine running. Nothing bad happened. I've heard a lot of people say leaving the engine run will kill your regulator or fry some other expensive part, in my experience I have never witnessed that. In my locate climate we have LOTS of experience with jumper cables... That was a VRLA (sealed) battery. I doubt it appeared like a dead short to the jumper cables. Definitely it is a good idea to attach your jumper cables away from the battery, hook the positive jump lead to the positive cable at the starter relay (solenoid) first, so there is no possibility of a spark, then hook the negative jump lead to the frame or the starter motor housing where the negative battery cable attaches, so any spark will occur well away from the battery. Even better is to make the final connections on the CAR end of the cables, so any sparks are many feet away from the bike's battery. Most of the problems with jump starting are probably from reverse polarity hookups. I well remember one guy who was accepting a jump from me years ago, saying "red to black, and black to red, right?" Luckily we avoided disaster in that case.
From: Robert Roland on 17 May 2010 09:14
On Mon, 17 May 2010 03:45:54 -0500, Mark Olson <olsonm(a)tiny.invalid> wrote: >"red to black, and >black to red, right?" If you do it like that at both ends, it's fine. -- RoRo |