From: Bob Myers on
On 5/26/2010 9:59 AM, S'mee wrote:
>
>> You've got that right, and I say that with some teeny bit of authority
>> since I ARE an electrical engineer....;-)
>>
>>
> Oh really? I might have a little project but only the skills for the
> physical part. OR you could do that kind caring thing and try to
> convice me that I don't need to convert a 6v motorcycle to 12v (so I
> can FINALLY put a light on the damned thing!)
>

Oh, sure, no problem. Here's Uncle Bob's simple method for converting
a 6V bike to 12V:

1. Locate your 6V bike.

2. Locate a 12V bike which is identical in every way you care about.

3. Take all the farkles you care about off the 6V bike and transfer them
to the 12V bike.

4. Toss the 6V bike off a cliff (or at least into a dark corner of the
garage, not to be worried about ever again).

There, wasn't that easy? ;-)

Bob M.

From: Bob Myers on
On 5/26/2010 11:29 PM, Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> On May 26, 7:33 am, Bob Myers<nospample...(a)address.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>> You've got that right, and I say that with some teeny bit of authority
>> since I ARE an electrical engineer....;-)
>>
>> Looks like this problem has already been correctly run down to the
>> rec/reg, and fixed, but I just wanted to add that the charging *voltage*
>> is not a complete indicator of the state of the charging system. What's
>> required is that the charging system be delivering sufficient charge
>> CURRENT (amps) to the battery (sufficient, but not more than a certain
>> amount) and at the correct voltage. A high charge voltage by itself
>> does not indicate anything about the charge current that you can
>> absolutely rely on.
>>
> Maybe I'm missing something here. Amps taper off
> as the voltage increases, but if you're measuring voltage
> at the battery and the battery's OK, I don't see how
> you're not delivering sufficient amps.
>

Therein lieth the rub, though - you're NOT certain that all is otherwise
well. And no one specified exactly where the voltage was being
measured, as I recall.

But possibly I misread the original problem statement. In any event,
when judging the operation of a charging system, I would greatly
prefer to have both a voltmeter AND an ammeter in the arsenal.


> Maybe if voltage were measured some place other than
> the battery terminals and there was a high resistance
> somewhere in the charging circuit ?
>

That's a possibility. And it's possible that the battery itself has
an abnormally high interest resistance, or that the measurement
is not actually at the battery terminals themselves (when many
people say "I'm measuring at the terminals," they often really
mean "I'm measuring at the closest exposed contact point
near the terminals" - including the terminal clamps, etc., as
opposed to the battery terminals themselves).

Bob M.

From: Bob Myers on
On 5/27/2010 2:34 AM, TOG(a)Toil wrote:
> On 27 May, 08:23, Robert Bolton<robertboltond...(a)gci.net> wrote:
>
>
>> I wonder if your parenthetical wasn't close to being the case. Having
>> high voltage but requiring a jump reeks of a bad connection somewhere,
>> presuming a good battery. I have to confess to being biased in
>> wanting that to be the case though, as my bike's voltmeter began
>> reading high at times this fall. I recently discovered loose
>> connections at the battery (both hot and ground), and am hoping I
>> solved the mystery by tightening the connections.
>>
>>
> Interesting. The dealer has confirmed that the reg/rec is toast. How
> this happened on a 2,000-mile bike is anyone's guess. But my limited
> experience with bike electrics is that they either fail because of
> corrosion in the connections (not an issue here) or simply because
> they just feel like it.
>

I toasted a regulator on the SV650 a few years back, and it was neither
cause. In that case, that stock regulators are notoriously undersized in
the heatsink department, and overheating is a sure way to a quick death
for most electronic components. On a motor-sickle, I'd probably add
vibration to the list of top causes, along with corrosion (around terminals,
at least) as you mentioned.

Bob M.

From: ? on
On May 27, 8:30 am, "Nelly Sod" <totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

> Wrong, the world will not be surprised to hear.

The world isn't listening, you're just being hypercritical and playing
to the gallery, which is typical of nelly sods.

> The problem was usually caused by one or both of two factors. The first
> (relatively rare) was corrosion causing shorts.

Does not compute. Corrosion doesn't cause short circuits, unless it
causes huge metal oxide crystals that bridge connections.

> The second was that Honda mounted
> the unit very near the engine with no cooling flow of air and it
> overheated.

That describes the location of most RR units.

> Honda upgraded the reg/rec with a finned unit, which
> generally solved the problem.

Possibly. Got any links to documentation on the web?

Can't be bothered? I thought not.

> I've even heard of CPU fans being fitted to cool the reg/rec.

Shows that the riders were using their own ingenuity to solve the
problem

> If the problem had been due to too many 'production break
> connections', then the upgraded unit would have failed as well, since
> it's a simple plug-in retro-fit, and the number of wiring connections
> wasn't changed at all.

Web documentation shows that some inventive riders did eliminate
excess production break connections and that they were satisfied with
that solution.


From: Bob Myers on
On 5/27/2010 9:13 AM, ? wrote:
> On May 27, 1:34 am, "Feeling Gecko-ish""
> <totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
>> But my limited
>> experience with bike electrics is that they either fail because of
>> corrosion in the connections (not an issue here) or simply because
>> they just feel like it.
>>
> How pathetic. Solid state electronics have no emotions.
>

Further evidence that you have never in your life actually dealt
with anything electronic. Any engineer or technician worth their salt
knows from long and painful experience that sometimes the parts
just have it in for you.

Bob M.