Drain plug stripped--self-tapping plug?
in [Tech]
|
Prev: Rough running '85 Honda VT700C
Next: new to the CB350
From: The Older Gentleman on 16 Aug 2007 14:48 The Older Gentleman <chateau.murray.takethisout(a)dsl.pipex.com> wrote: Er, for sump bolt' in the previous posting, read 'the hole it goes into'. Obviously. -- BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 SL125 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3 BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
From: Rob Kleinschmidt on 16 Aug 2007 15:03 On Aug 16, 11:46 am, chateau.murray.takethis...(a)dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > Carlin <nos...(a)nospam.com> wrote: > > Are these viable options for the long term, or are they just stop-gap > > solutions? > > I've had a helicoil put in a stripped sump bolt. No worries. > > best of all, when I bought a Honda 125 single that turned out to have a > stripped sump bolt (held in place with glue and tape....), I got an > engineering shop to build up the area around the drain hole with alloy > weld, and then drill and re-tap for the plug (the 125 doesn't have a > separate sump pan, you see - the drian bolt goes straight into the > crankcase. > > Cost me the equivalent of about 70 bucks, admittedly some years ago. > > Don't bother removing the sump pan. Any competent engineer can put in a > helicoil with it in situ. It'll cost a few dollars and yes, it will be a > permanent repair. Did you do anything about the aluminum bits left over from expanding and tapping the sump hole ? My inclination would be to flush some oil through the crankcase to try to wash any junk out.
From: IdaSpode on 16 Aug 2007 15:09 On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 19:46:06 +0100, chateau.murray.takethisout(a)dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote: >Carlin <nospam(a)nospam.com> wrote: > >> Are these viable options for the long term, or are they just stop-gap >> solutions? > >I've had a helicoil put in a stripped sump bolt. No worries. A "Time-Sert" would be a viable alternative to the classic Helicoil: http://www.timesert.com/ <snip> DJ
From: The Older Gentleman on 16 Aug 2007 16:57 Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216128(a)aol.com> wrote: > On Aug 16, 11:46 am, chateau.murray.takethis...(a)dsl.pipex.com (The > Older Gentleman) wrote: > > Carlin <nos...(a)nospam.com> wrote: > > > Are these viable options for the long term, or are they just stop-gap > > > solutions? > > > > I've had a helicoil put in a stripped sump bolt. No worries. > > > > best of all, when I bought a Honda 125 single that turned out to have a > > stripped sump bolt (held in place with glue and tape....), I got an > > engineering shop to build up the area around the drain hole with alloy > > weld, and then drill and re-tap for the plug (the 125 doesn't have a > > separate sump pan, you see - the drian bolt goes straight into the > > crankcase. > > > > Cost me the equivalent of about 70 bucks, admittedly some years ago. > > > > Don't bother removing the sump pan. Any competent engineer can put in a > > helicoil with it in situ. It'll cost a few dollars and yes, it will be a > > permanent repair. > > Did you do anything about the aluminum bits left over from > expanding and tapping the sump hole ? My inclination would > be to flush some oil through the crankcase to try to wash > any junk out. I knew someone would say that! Yes, not a bad idea, but given the oil filtration in modern engines, probably unnecessary. Any swarf will be caught in the filter screen or filter itself. -- BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 SL125 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3 BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
From: Carlin on 16 Aug 2007 17:53
Hello, all, Thanks very much for the quick replies. I agree that I need to be careful about what work I decide to do myself. :-) But, we learn from our mistakes, right? I'm not sure that I want to throw in the towel on my first mistake. Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of Fake here--since the pan is already damaged, I might as well try one of the replacement plug ideas before replacing the pan. Regarding Helicoils or Timecerts, I found Timecerts to be $60-80, which is almost as much as the new pan. I'm thinking a cheaper simple solution would make more sense, then replace the pan if that fails. BTW, I stripped it by overtightening. Yes, I should use the torque wrench I have. I didn't realize it would strip _that_ easily. Thanks, Carlin Fake Name <fakename(a)fake.com> wrote: > On Thu, 16 Aug 2007 17:45:57 GMT, "Albrecht via MotorcycleKB.com" > <u33665(a)uwe> wrote: >>Carlin wrote: >> >>>Any insight would be appreciated! >> >>It really goes against my nature to say this, but, after what you did to the >>oil drain plug, you're likely to ruin the lower crankcase replacing the oil >>pan, so leave the job to the professionals. > I agree with you, Albrecht. But since the pan is AFU already I think > he should give the automotive self tapping plug a shot. |