Drain plug stripped--self-tapping plug?
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From: The Older Gentleman on 18 Aug 2007 16:14 Rick Cortese <ricortes(a)earthlink.net> wrote: > f you get a chance you may want to take a look at Varmit Al's web site. > He is kind of the last of a dying breed. > http://www.varmintal.com/apopt.htm What a lovely site. Bookmarked, and thank you for the url. -- BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 CB125 SL125 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3 BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
From: Fake Name on 18 Aug 2007 18:19 <snip> >There are so many options on where to go on this simple problem I'm going >nuts. :-) > >Thanks for everyone's insights, though. It's certainly better to make a >decision with more information than less. > >Carlin You're taking some heat for stripping the threads on an oil pan and some heat is well deserved. But I think some of the comments are a little over the top here and in a.m.sportbike too. You are not the first person to strip a thread and you will not be the last. Anyone who has done enough wrenching will have to admit to cutting his hands, burning the tips of his fingers, spilling used oil, and so on. There is a learning curve to all this and you're going to do fine with a bit more time. I bet as long as you live and no matter how many cars/bikes you own you'll never strip another oil pan. Personally, I've stripped the Philips heads of drywall screws while working at odd angles etc but I am far from incompetent. There is a reason that the stores sell #2 bits in 10-packs. My wife used to own a car that when we bought it came with a fouled drain plug. It was stripped by jiffy lube. It wasn't the threads that were stripped it was the corners rounded off. Some "professional" had used an air tool either to remove or reinstall it and it wouldn't move for me. I filed two opposite sides flat and used an open end wrench to take it off and replaced it with a new one. When I cleaned out the carbs on my first bike the jackass that had been in them before me stripped every single Philips head screw on and in the carbs. The bike came with the receipt from the shop where a "professional" had done the work. I had to use a combination of PB blaster and easy outs to remove them but replaced them with capped hex screws. I didn't want to over tighten them so I put lock washers on where I could so they would hold when simply just past snugged and anti-seize on the sync screws. I didn't own a torque wrench when I first started working on cars. I bought one when I bought a SAAB as my second car at age 20. I now have four, three clicky types and one beam. There is enough overlap that I can check them against each other. Even the best Snap-On clicky one has a 4% error factor. The beam type needs lots of space to use and unless you can look straight down on it, parallax will keep you from being able to read it. Some were discussing magnets to get out debris. That's fine for iron but I've not seen the magnet that can get out copper or aluminum. Before you try to remove the exhaust, squirt a bit of pb blaster on the bolts the day before. If any of the bolts seem stuck, don't give into the temptation to simply grab a cheater bar and twist. Try to tighten them a bit then back them off. If that fails get a non-ratcheting tool, like a box end wrench or a 3/8 drive tool and work them back and forth. Even though they will seem not to move the back and forth will work them loose. If that fails get a small hammer and tap on the end of the tool in the direction of removal. When I say tap I mean about a 1-2 inch swing the tapping will take some time but it has never failed me to loosen up a stubborn bolt. Do not swing for the fences just little tap tap taps will do. You seem willing to do some reading so here are a few things to check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium_oxide http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling http://www.sacskyranch.com/antiseize.htm http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_extractscrew.htm
From: Mark Olson on 18 Aug 2007 17:25 Fake Name wrote: > Some were discussing magnets to get out debris. That's fine for iron > but I've not seen the magnet that can get out copper or aluminum. Doh! Yep, I was being a bit dim, suggesting a magnetic drain plug for catching aluminum swarf. -- '01 SV650S '99 EX250-F13 '98 ZG1000-A13 OMF #7
From: The Older Gentleman on 18 Aug 2007 18:11 Fake Name <fakename(a)fake.com> wrote: > You're taking some heat for stripping the threads on an oil pan and > some heat is well deserved. <snip> Did you take Advanced Lessons in Tedious? -- BMW K1100LT 750SS CB400F CD250 CB125 SL125 GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3 BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
From: Fake Name on 19 Aug 2007 00:26
> >Did you take Advanced Lessons in Tedious? I know you have to post a reply to every post in every thread but couldn't you add something useful or at least funny? |