Drain plug stripped--self-tapping plug?
in [Tech]
|
Prev: Rough running '85 Honda VT700C
Next: new to the CB350
From: Ken Abrams on 17 Aug 2007 08:25 "The Older Gentleman" <chateau.murray.takethisout(a)dsl.pipex.com> wrote > Do you really, really think that repairing a stripped thread will > invalidate a warranty (Apart from if it fails and blows the engine, > which it won't)? > Thank you for that. Now we know that, among your other many and varied talents, you can also see into the future.
From: chateau.murray on 17 Aug 2007 09:34 On 17 Aug, 14:25, "Ken Abrams" <harvest_t...(a)scum.suckers> wrote: > "The Older Gentleman" <chateau.murray.takethis...(a)dsl.pipex.com> wrote > > > Do you really, really think that repairing a stripped thread will > > invalidate a warranty (Apart from if it fails and blows the engine, > > which it won't)? > > Thank you for that. Now we know that, among your other many and varied > talents, you can also see into the future. I can. I can foresee that you'll make another silly posting. Just for the record - it won't invalidate the warranty.
From: Captain Midnight on 16 Aug 2007 21:31 "Carlin" <nospam(a)nospam.com> wrote in message news:mH3xi.37083$sR4.1923(a)fe08.news.easynews.com... > Hello, all, > > Thanks very much for the quick replies. > > I agree that I need to be careful about what work I decide to do myself. > :-) But, we learn from our mistakes, right? I'm not sure that I want to > throw in the towel on my first mistake. > > Right now, I'm thinking along the lines of Fake here--since the pan is > already damaged, I might as well try one of the replacement plug ideas > before replacing the pan. > > Regarding Helicoils or Timecerts, I found Timecerts to be $60-80, which is > almost as much as the new pan. I'm thinking a cheaper simple solution > would make more sense, then replace the pan if that fails. > > BTW, I stripped it by overtightening. Yes, I should use the torque wrench > I have. I didn't realize it would strip _that_ easily. > > Thanks, > Carlin > Have never tried it but like their other products. http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?layout=6&productline=FORMTHREAD&disp_language=en My preference on that new a bike would be pull the pan and use a Heli-Coil if enough material is there to oversize it.. Better alignment on a drill press, no chips left behind and easy to check if the oversizing ran into porosity. Been a while but the last single sized kit I bought was ~$15. Smaller size though. May be able to get them at local auto parts store. Heli-Coil isn't just a fix in aluminum. It's actually stronger than just the aluminum thread when done properly. Lubrication greatly reduces the amount of torque needed to tighten it. So the "feel" is much different than a dry thread. Keep the rubber side down.
From: chateau.murray on 17 Aug 2007 10:55 On 17 Aug, 03:31, "Captain Midnight" <Not...(a)twip.invalid> wrote: > "Carlin" <nos...(a)nospam.com> wrote in message > > > My preference on that new a bike would be pull the pan and use a Heli-Coil > if enough material is there to oversize it.. Better alignment on a drill > press, no chips left behind and easy to check if the oversizing ran into > porosity. Been a while but the last single sized kit I bought was ~$15. > Smaller size though. May be able to get them at local auto parts store. > > Heli-Coil isn't just a fix in aluminum. It's actually stronger than just the > aluminum thread when done properly. > Agree, but there's still *no need* to remove the pan. Timeserts and helicoils are things that I actually enjoy using, because they're so simple, so tough (as you say), and effect a permanent repair. In fact, you've reminded me that I've only got one or two left, so I'd better get another kit, I think.
From: Rob Kleinschmidt on 17 Aug 2007 14:19
On Aug 16, 1:57 pm, chateau.murray.takethis...(a)dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > Rob Kleinschmidt <Rkleinsch1216...(a)aol.com> wrote: > > On Aug 16, 11:46 am, chateau.murray.takethis...(a)dsl.pipex.com (The > > Older Gentleman) wrote: > > > Carlin <nos...(a)nospam.com> wrote: > > > > Are these viable options for the long term, or are they just stop-gap > > > > solutions? > > > > I've had a helicoil put in a stripped sump bolt. No worries. > > > > best of all, when I bought a Honda 125 single that turned out to have a > > > stripped sump bolt (held in place with glue and tape....), I got an > > > engineering shop to build up the area around the drain hole with alloy > > > weld, and then drill and re-tap for the plug (the 125 doesn't have a > > > separate sump pan, you see - the drian bolt goes straight into the > > > crankcase. > > > > Cost me the equivalent of about 70 bucks, admittedly some years ago. > > > > Don't bother removing the sump pan. Any competent engineer can put in a > > > helicoil with it in situ. It'll cost a few dollars and yes, it will be a > > > permanent repair. > > > Did you do anything about the aluminum bits left over from > > expanding and tapping the sump hole ? My inclination would > > be to flush some oil through the crankcase to try to wash > > any junk out. > > I knew someone would say that! > > Yes, not a bad idea, but given the oil filtration in modern engines, > probably unnecessary. Any swarf will be caught in the filter screen or > filter itself. I could be wrong, but does'nt the filter sit downstream from the pump so the pump can pressurize it ? More of a theoretical/religious objection than anything else. You'd probably get away with it with no problem. Also, it's way easy to drill out a hole slightly off from 90 degrees. Probably not a big deal for a drain plug with crush washer, but can be an enormous problem in some helicoil applications such as for long cylinder studs. Considering the OP's skill level, I think he might do better to drop the pan, bring it to a shop that knows what they're doing, then figure out how to get the pan bolted back in place. Probably less challenging than a helicoil. |