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From: Snag on 21 Feb 2010 08:01 Robert Bolton wrote: > On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 06:38:26 -0600, "Snag" <snag_one(a)comcast.net> > wrote: > >> krusty kritter wrote: >>> On Feb 20, 2:39 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...(a)gci.net> wrote: >>> >>>> Think that will help overheating at idle? >>> >>> Just drill out the EPA anti-tamper plug and turn the idle mixture >>> screw about 1 turn counterclockwise. >>> >>> If you have to turn the screw more than 3.0 full turns out from >>> lightly seated, the idle jet is too small. >>> >>> DynoJet kits are bullshit, the people at DynoJet are preying upon >>> the ignorance of riders who don't know how CV >>> carburetors work. >>> >>> Go to www.factorypro.com and spend an evening or two reading about >>> CV carb tuning before you waste $100+ >>> on a Dynojet kit. >> >> That's the first good advice I've seen from you ! >> >> FWIW Robert , I'm running an Andrews cam , EV23 I think (in the >> motor when I bought the bike) with a K&N filter and modified stock >> mufflers and I get 40+ MPG . I didn't punch the baffles , I cut the >> muffs open and drilled the holes in the center tube bigger - lotta >> work . Something to remember , if you let more air in , you need to >> let more out , and give it more gas to keep the mixture balanced . A >> .020" washer under the clip on the needle will enrichen the midrange >> a little bit , along with a larger main for WOT . If you replace the >> cam , be sure you replace the inboard needle bearing with a >> Torrington unit , the stock item is NOT up to the loads of a higher >> lift cam with fast ramps . Goes without sayin' (but I will anyway) >> to install new tappets too . > Thanks for the tips. I don't have a tachometer, but I still have a > mercury column vacuum gauge out in the garage. Tune the idle screw to > highest vacuum? I tuned mine by turning it in until it stumbled , counting turns out until it stumbled , then setting it halfway in between . You might need to go up a size of two on the "idle" jet . It's really an "intermediate" jet - the screw controls at idle , but as soon as you crack the throttle it meters the fuel until the tapered needle takes over at about quarter throttle . > > About the pipes, Yeah, what you did sounds like a lot of work. I read > somewhere, though I don't recall where right now, that the pipes on > the 1997 1340 are the same as was used on the 1450, or at least the > first year or two of the 1450. So I was telling myself I might be > able to get away with leaving the mufflers stock because the factory > says it's big enough for a larger displacement engine. It might be a > faulty wish, but I'm just worried less restrictive mufflers mean more > noise. It wouldn't be such a big deal if I hadn't trashed my ears > half a dozen years ago, but it doesn't take much to get them ringing > these days. You're certainly right about the flow though. After I opened up the baffle tube holes , I made a cage of hardware cloth to keep a layer of fiberglass batting tight against the outer shell between the baffle discs . These are just a little bit louder than stock muffs . If you can find a set of stock units off a SE 103 bike , they're supposed to flow very well and be quiet too . > >> You might want to subscribe to Harley Tech Talk , there's a ton of >> great info in the archives there . > > Will do. Thanks > > Robert Glad I could help ! -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF
From: Mark Olson on 21 Feb 2010 08:12 > On Sat, 20 Feb 2010 17:41:25 -0800 (PST), saddlebag > <saddlebag(a)aol.com> wrote: > >> On Feb 20, 5:39 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...(a)gci.net> wrote: >>> it), but am wondering if there are aftermarket shapes that would >>> reduce passenger buffeting. We wear flip-ups, and the wife muse use >>> the chin insert to prevent updraft from entering under the chin bar >>> Anyone have experience with the Vstream, or other turbulence reducing >>> shield? >> I have one on my FJR and it is fantastic. I have nothing against the Vstream, from what I hear they work good on the FJR. I just want to point out that means little to Robert since he rides a different bike. Turbulence is complicated and the only way to tell what works on your particular setup is to try it, or hope to find someone else who has a very similar bike and similar sized rider and passenger, and get their input. The shield and its shape are only one part of the whole system that generates turbulence. My former ZG1000 Concours had a reputation for turbulence that was difficult to mitigate. I tried the stock shield and a Rifle shield but wasn't happy with either one. I sold it before I figured out how to fix it.
From: krusty kritter on 21 Feb 2010 08:18 On Feb 20, 9:27 am, "Snag" <snag_...(a)comcast.net> wrote: > I disagree with this statement : "The only way to know what jetting > changes you will need is by trial-and-error." > That may have been true when he penned (typed ?) those words , but > nowadays with dyno and wide-band 02 sensor technology it's not . It can get > pretty expensive though ... Well, dyno testing and setting the idle mixture according to EPA emissions specifications isn't going to help Robert anyway. The whole idea of opening up the idle mixture screw an extra 1.0 to 1.5 turns is to *waste* a little extra fuel at idle to cool the motor down by lowering combustion temperature. This results in less heat transfer to the metal parts. Old style two valve motors take as much as 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation to fully burn the mixture, while modern four valve engines only take about 32 degrees of rotation. Honda's eight valve per cylinder race engine only took 46 degrees of crank rotation to burn the mixture. But there's no simple way to add modern swirl and tumbling technology to a Big Twin, so ignoring emissions specifications and opening up the idle screw is "so easy, a cave man can do it."
From: Snag on 21 Feb 2010 09:47 krusty kritter wrote: > On Feb 20, 9:27 am, "Snag" <snag_...(a)comcast.net> wrote: > >> I disagree with this statement : "The only way to know what jetting >> changes you will need is by trial-and-error." >> That may have been true when he penned (typed ?) those words , but >> nowadays with dyno and wide-band 02 sensor technology it's not . It >> can get pretty expensive though ... > > Well, dyno testing and setting the idle mixture according to EPA > emissions specifications isn't going to help Robert anyway. Who said anything about EPA specs ? > > The whole idea of opening up the idle mixture screw an extra 1.0 to > 1.5 turns is to > *waste* a little extra fuel at idle to cool the motor down by lowering > combustion temperature. That's also a great way to foul plugs at idle . A properly tuned idle circuit doesn't need to "waste" any gas to "lower combustion temps" . It also eliminates the need to blip the throttle at stop lights to keep the motor runnin' . The oftener you open your mouth the more stupid comes out of it . -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF
From: The Older Gentleman on 21 Feb 2010 10:44
krusty kritter <breoganmacbrath(a)yahoo.com> wrote: > Old style two valve motors take as much as 90 degrees of crankshaft > rotation to fully burn the mixture, while modern four valve engines > only take about 32 degrees of rotation. Has it occured to you that this is entirely dependent on engine speed? Answer: no. The speed of combustion is pretty much fixed. Therefore the amount of crankshaft rotation per burn is entirely dependent on the revs. To help you understand this, let's imagine an engine turning at 1rpm. The crank will have moved a fraction of a degree during combustion. Now compare with an engine turning at 10,000rpm.... See? In short, what you've posted is meaningless as it stands. -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools |