Headnig toward the Dark Side
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From: Robert Bolton on 20 Feb 2010 05:39 Spring is around the corner, a 6 week corner, and I've yet to perform my motorcycle chores on my 1997 Electra Glide. 1) A new windshield. Quantum coated polycarb is apparently the material of choice, as opposed to acrylic or uncoated polycarb. OEM 12 inch was fine for me (although I must sit up straight to see over it), but am wondering if there are aftermarket shapes that would reduce passenger buffeting. We wear flip-ups, and the wife muse use the chin insert to prevent updraft from entering under the chin bar and up into her eyes. To date I've read bout Cee Bailey Super Step, Klock Werks Flare, and National Vstream. http://www.ceebaileys.com/harley/flhtssc_ws.html http://www.nationalcycle.com/catalog/NC_NewProduct_VStream.pdf I'm thinking OEM or National's VStream. Anyone have experience with the Vstream, or other turbulence reducing shield? 2) The 1997 classic lacks factory intercom, so I purchased an Autocom. Now I intend to patch the bike's radio into the Autocom unit. I think I'm going to tap off of the speakers and install an off/on switch, rheostat, and 3mm stereo jack, but will also think about impedance matching and ground isolation. I could probably live without the impedance matching, but from what I've heard the Autocom needs the ground isolation to prevent ground loop hum. Anyone have experience with doing something similar? 3) I was looking into how I could get the bike to take longer to overheat at an extended stop. I found a site that recommended a carburetor re-jet, with the idea that factory settings are way lean, so richening that baby up will help it to run cool. It also noted that doing a carb re-jet and air cleaner replacement (screaming eagle?) will give me a little more horsepower too. That naturally got me to thinking about horsepower. Research revealed that I can't get any more displacement out of the 1340 without boring the engine case, so I really doubt I'll go there. Higher compression pistons lead to detonation (if that's the right term), which is a problem I already have on shutdown, so I'm not eager to go there. This leaves air cleaner, carb, cam, and pipes as options for more horsepower. I'm not into loud pipes. I'm considering carb re-jet and air cleaner this spring, and perhaps a cam next winter. I suppose I can expect lower mileage too. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdstage1.htm Think that will help overheating at idle? Robert
From: krusty kritter on 20 Feb 2010 06:10 On Feb 20, 2:39 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...(a)gci.net> wrote: > Think that will help overheating at idle? Just drill out the EPA anti-tamper plug and turn the idle mixture screw about 1 turn counterclockwise. If you have to turn the screw more than 3.0 full turns out from lightly seated, the idle jet is too small. DynoJet kits are bullshit, the people at DynoJet are preying upon the ignorance of riders who don't know how CV carburetors work. Go to www.factorypro.com and spend an evening or two reading about CV carb tuning before you waste $100+ on a Dynojet kit.
From: Snag on 20 Feb 2010 07:38 krusty kritter wrote: > On Feb 20, 2:39 am, Robert Bolton <robertboltond...(a)gci.net> wrote: > >> Think that will help overheating at idle? > > Just drill out the EPA anti-tamper plug and turn the idle mixture > screw about 1 turn counterclockwise. > > If you have to turn the screw more than 3.0 full turns out from > lightly seated, the idle jet is too small. > > DynoJet kits are bullshit, the people at DynoJet are preying upon the > ignorance of riders who don't know how CV > carburetors work. > > Go to www.factorypro.com and spend an evening or two reading about CV > carb tuning before you waste $100+ > on a Dynojet kit. That's the first good advice I've seen from you ! FWIW Robert , I'm running an Andrews cam , EV23 I think (in the motor when I bought the bike) with a K&N filter and modified stock mufflers and I get 40+ MPG . I didn't punch the baffles , I cut the muffs open and drilled the holes in the center tube bigger - lotta work . Something to remember , if you let more air in , you need to let more out , and give it more gas to keep the mixture balanced . A .020" washer under the clip on the needle will enrichen the midrange a little bit , along with a larger main for WOT . If you replace the cam , be sure you replace the inboard needle bearing with a Torrington unit , the stock item is NOT up to the loads of a higher lift cam with fast ramps . Goes without sayin' (but I will anyway) to install new tappets too . You might want to subscribe to Harley Tech Talk , there's a ton of great info in the archives there . -- Snag "90 FLHTCU "Strider" '39 WLDD "PopCycle" BS 132/SENS/DOF
From: The Older Gentleman on 20 Feb 2010 10:04 Snag <snag_one(a)comcast.net> wrote: > That's the first good advice I've seen from you ! Monkeys, typewriters, Hamlet, etc. Though, yeah, some carb stuff he knows. -- BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Triumph Street Triple Honda CB400F Suzuki TS250 Suzuki GN250 chateaudotmurrayatidnetdotcom Nothing damages a machine more than an ignoramus with a manual, a can-do attitude and a set of cheap tools
From: S'mee on 20 Feb 2010 11:40
On Feb 20, 8:04 am, totallydeadmail...(a)yahoo.co.uk (The Older Gentleman) wrote: > Snag <snag_...(a)comcast.net> wrote: > > That's the first good advice I've seen from you ! > > Monkeys, typewriters, Hamlet, etc. Though, yeah, some carb stuff he > knows. Bullshit he rips if from other pages and puts it together to appear knowledgeable. |